Impressions of a 2nd First Mate

As a follower of “Life in New Lanes” since its inception, it was an honour and privilege to be invited to join in along these particular lanes in Italy for a week of cycling, walking, swimming, train / station hopping, and the opportunity to visit a long held “tick-box item”. My time as second 1st Mate covered 4 nights in Cinque Terre, 2 nights near Lucca and 1 night in “Fair Verona”.

Whilst I had been to Rome before, this was my first visit to Italy and my first extended period on a campervan trip, though I have played the role of 1st Mate over a weekend in the UK before. The journey from Verona to Modena traversed flat plains at a steady pace, with the barriers on the toll points standing upright to attention in recognition of one of the multitude of technical devices and set ups that J has installed in her van, (unsurprisingly to those of us who know her), which meant that tolls were all taken automatically with us barely coming to a halt as we went through them.

We eventually turned into the hills between the plains and the Mediterranean sea and began to marvel at the scenery, tunnels, bridges and hillside villages that filled our vision. The sea, however seemed ever elusive, until finally crossing yet another viaduct, it was suddenly there below us – we had arrived at Levanto. A master of her craft as “Captain”, the choice of location, just outside the National Park would prove to be inspired as it was a lovely setting, but less crowded with the “marauding masses” from the cruise ships and other tour groups than the main Cinque Terre villages. The days here were spent in a combination of: cycling to a local bay along an old railway line, through old galleries with views of the vibrant blue and white water of the waves crashing against the rocky shoreline; an afternoon swimming in a protected area on the beach at Framura at the end of the cycleway; walking parts of the Cinque Terra route, hopping on and off trains as necessary – marvelling at the tunnel work along the way – and taking in the pretty villages perched on hilltops, or spanning small coves and bays; folded rock formations; spring flowers, and dry stone walls; and finally a foray into La Spezia preceding a return trip by ferry to view the shoreline villages from the sea.

1st Mate accommodation was provided by Decathlon’s 2-person ‘2-second’ blackout tent. The addition of the blow-up mattress provided a very comfortable bed space. Personally, not being troubled with needing darkness to sleep, I found the blackness of the interior a little oppressive, but can see its advantages when pitched under campsite lights if you do need darkness to sleep well. It certainly seemed to do a pretty good job of keeping out the worst of the day’s heat.

A highlight for me was the stop-off in Pisa to see the Leaning Tower with my own eyes – the tick-box moment. It did not disappoint! In fact quite the opposite – it was so much more impressive in its setting and in reality than any pictures have ever conveyed to me. We stayed in a second campsite near Lucca (I will leave all assessments of campsites to the more experienced than I!). A cycleway alongside a river took us into a morning strolling around the streets of Lucca with a variety of facades of buildings to be admired.

Finally, “to fair Verona, where we lay our scene…” , actually not for Romeo and Juliet, but for the opening night of Verdi’s Nabucco staged in the extraordinary setting of the 30CE Roman Amphitheatre. My first ever opera, in a truly awesome setting as the day turned to night and we perched on ancient stone seats used by the audience of a different type of entertainment in the distant past. Verona itself is a city that invites a second visit, each corner and square seeming to enthral with romantic balconies, stunning architecture and tantalising unvisited buildings in the surrounding hills … I feel a city break coming on!

It was a fabulous experience of sharing in living “Life in New Lanes”. These New Lanes were life affirming, inspiring awe and wonder at the marvel of ‘worked’ stone, whether by man or nature, and, at their verges were the delights of delicious gelatos and Italian cuisine. These lanes lead to an attitude of gratitude for such privileges and opportunities.