Netherlands

Last week of this big trip

The Randstad is the conurbation in south Netherlands containing almost half the population of the country in its cities and towns, including Rotterdam, Den Haag and Delft and lots of others. I stayed for 3 nights on what I consider to be a stereotypical Dutch place – a peaceful small-holding on a polder feeling very rural, with dykes and windmills, animals and crops, yet within easy 12-15km cycling distance of major urban centres. I didn’t pay for electricity, instead relying successfully on my solar equipment despite quite alot of overcast weather, so all this felt very simple and pared back. I was the guest of a very lively hare which entertained me in its mad jumping and darting way.

The impression I have of the city centre of The Hague was perhaps not done justice given my whistle-stop cycling through, but was unexpectedly quite a contrast with the beautiful Delft, which we had visited 15ish years ago when coming over in a previous campervan to support Luke in a racket tournament nearby. Whilst being a very lively sizeable town with many students, the latter’s historic centre is like a mini version of Amsterdam’s. The main square which banned car parking in 2004 is a cafe-sitting public space heaven. Cycling to this town was across more agricultural/leisure-amenity land and woodland past market gardening & logistics businesses and waterways. Delft photos:

Scheveningen is the ‘seaside’ for this conurbation, beautiful beaches and loads of cafe/relaxing locations.

I used bike + metro for a visit to Rotterdam’s centre which was as expected a bustling modern metropolis, its centre had been completely bombed in WWII. The architecture is an interesting mix.

For the last 4 nights I moved to what is an island just to the south of Rotterdam, although you’d have to really zoom in on the maps to see the water around it. The tourist bumf calls it ‘Voorne Putten’. Another beautiful area – cycling goes without question, waterway leisure provision, lovely little towns and villages and also North Sea beaches and impressive dyke/dam engineering. I chose this based on a youtube vlog of a bikepacking trip which recommended particularly the town of Brielle, and found a 4-star campsite with an ACSI rate of 23eu just a little ferry ride across the water or via the bridge a few kms away. The fortified small town of Brielle is lovely to visit, relax by its canals and watch the world go by. What’s so impressive is that the surrounding area of Rotterdam oil-refining and ports, which would be a hellscape in other countries is just across a beautiful canal from here, and you’d never know it’s there :).

Just across the way

As with Amsterdam, all these really heavy industrial spaces are in reality very close to urban living amongst nature. I think in the UK the equivalents are surrounded by miles of extensive no-access, ruined, unused no-man’s land.

A taste of this area:

So as well as trying to hold off physical aging with the bike and walking to toilet blocks, I have worked hard at building new neural networks to keep the brain plasticity going!! Driving here meant running the gauntlet again of Europe’s largest sea port motorway madness, although this was always needed to get to the Hook of Holland (or P&O Europoort) for my return journey tomorrow. But I have also done the learning curve of understanding the amazing and reliable numbering system of the bikeways here, and used the FietsKnoop app to plan my routes. I count myself no longer a novice at this.

There are 3 observations I want to add – Netherlands is of course missing hills & mountains; I get caught out repeatedly by my autopilot assumption-driven behaviour that I am more or less the only one to be travelling on a bike path, incurring irritation from others :); I have total confidence that any bike path I am on will not abandon me to a fast car road, and finally that much of the waterways are clean.

After about 6 weeks, I am happy to be going back home to family & friends with other good things including campervan stays planned for the Summer. The van has once again been fantastic as well as my bikes, England’s performance against Croatia was a definite improvement, and Andy Burnham’s win to hold off Reform – news in this very morning is great news for me. I am as ever thankful.

Posted by Jackie in Cities-Towns, Musings, Netherlands, 0 comments

Cycling & Its Paradise

Have I given adequate impression of my love of cycling? For my posterity, although the technical challenges of saving my journal to a no cost yet still accessible place remain to be addressed, I thought this warranted a post in its own right.

I have played bike tig, pulled along neighbours on roller skates, cycled to the local tennis club, grabbed a tow from a passing milk float and other such joyful, not including a broken elbow, activity, all before leaving primary school in the 60s/early 70s heyday of childhood freedom in the mostly car-free streets. As a teenager I also regularly walked the 2.5 miles or so to secondary school so that I could spend or save the bus money, and then used the bike to get to sixth form from age 16. One particularly embarrassing moment was tipping into and causing a crash with my co-riders, one of whom Carole from previous posts, whilst riding 3 abreast in front of a school bus and busy traffic at the end of the school day. We were all ok and lived to tell the tale of the denting of our 16/17-year old pride & cred.

The cycling continued through university where I was knocked off my bike by a bus (bus-driver’s fault) whilst cycling across an exit of a large elevated roundabout near the Aston campus in central Birmingham; grabbing my bike’s handlebars whilst it was in the process of being stolen from in front of the sports hall so that the thieves abandoned their attempt; cycling close to the back of a bus for the drag along the Oxford road to university in Manchester, and crashing into it when it stopped, not unexpectedly! at a bus stop; and then the accident driven into by a car whilst cycling to my work in London which did put me into hospital for a short stay to repair a severed tendon in my foot, and monitor the internal bleeding in my knees. The compensation from this event provided our honeymoon to St Lucia. In all cases I have fortunately been able to cycle on.

Continuing as a parent, I, & my ex-hubs who also likes cycling, have gone to much trouble to encourage (impose) the use of bikes by our children, from bringing my eldest home from after-school club sitting on a cushion on the panier rack on my way back from work in London, to child-seats and then trailer bikes, really appreciating dedicated bike routes in holiday areas, and cycling across residential areas in our home town to get to school etc.

I first sought the cycling world of the Netherlands when I brought my daughter and youngest son, less than 10 years old, to Amsterdam via a mini-cruise from Hull to Rotterdam. The most striking thing of this trip I remember was seeing the scale of the above-ground multi-storey-ish bike rack at the central station, which almost 30 years later is the most amazing place and below ground. We hired bikes and it was pretty hair-raising at times keeping tabs of Tim in amongst the bike traffic even then.

For some reason this interest has morphed abit in my later leisure & time/information rich years into what’s now named ‘urbanism’ with a focus on the use of the bike for transport, and all the implications of the reduction of car use for living. Reading commentary from people from all over the world confirms imo that the Netherlands is the global model for this in reality and I feel that what it has achieved over the last 50 years really ‘fits’ me. The ‘Not Just Bikes‘ channel amongst others and the books written by advocates such as Melissa & Chris Bruntlett have led to deeper reflection on how this country and cities in other places such as Copenhagen, Paris & the London heightened culture war battle-space have developed, and their decades-long or relatively recent intentionality regarding the promotion of walking, cycling and public transport for better living and as necessary car alternatives in highly-populated, space-premium, overheating cities.

It’s not just the cycling infrastructure that’s so great here, but also the way nature seems to be right there, in amongst, or easily accessible on the edge of, urban living – trees, waterways, reeds, parks. If only I could transplant the extended family as well as all my friends to this country! Not to mention the regained benefits of being EU citizens, particularly given its chance of a bloc potentially able to resist to a greater extent tech-bro & strongman fascist power.

 

 

Posted by Jackie in Musings, Netherlands, Netherlands, Places, The Good, 1 comment

The Netherlands with Toddler & Baby

The Eurocamp chalet/static caravan was on the Koningshof Vakantiepark between Leiden and the coast at Katwijk, and promised a lovely indoor pool for young children, an indoor play area and nice cafe/reception, and of course flat cycling. We had decided that I should stay in the chalet rather than booking a pitch, and the best bedroom for me given the sleeping shenanigans of the little ones, was the tiny bunk-bed room, smaller than my very small bathroom at home, which I had all to myself! Being an adult in this human environment meant absolute exhaustion by the early evening, so even a narrow, just about long-enough bottom bunk did meet the need. My daughter & family eventually got used to the accommodation after initial disappointment following their second stay at the comparative luxury of a Terhills Centreparc chalet in Belgium.

We’ve had slightly better weather than a British spring, the rain mostly holding off and periods of sunshine between the clouds, but always windy. The location of the chalet within the site was pleasant in the greenery and private, albeit at a good walk to the pool & cafe, with a generous decking. The pool was enjoyed by all, for which another thank goodness, and being able to order meals in the cafe from 5pm was also really helpful. I think we’d all agree the 4-night stay was enough for the assembled individuals in that setting. Meanwhile my son & his partner were happy working in their restored apartment.

Re the fulfillment of the family cycling à la dutch dreams and unlike a year ago, my granddaughter was happy to sit in the Thule bike seat on the e-bike for rides with one or more parents to the Katwijk seaside and the beautiful historic town of Leiden – see last year’s post. I and my grandson spent a couple of hours in the soft play area and cafe. Unfortunately the beach was not able to be endured for very long with the continuous sand-blasting from the north sea wind, reminiscent of my childhood holidays camping in Cornwall. I also cycled to Katwijk, had a slightly better morning of weather, sitting in a cafe 2-wheel usage watching, and it was interesting to see the seals very near on the river estuary.

On the way back to the ferry at Rotterdam (I was staying on for another week), a visit to Peppa Pig World helped spend a couple of hours. Yes, holidaying with very young children provides a change for the parents, but in most cases more work and less sleep! The lure is there, with assumptions of perfect weather, and no sickness etc. All things considered, this holiday went as well as could be expected, and was hard work. Earlier on in the year with that holiday lure, we booked a family-friendly all-inclusive week (to remove the whole food tyrannical ‘work’) in the Algarve for my offspring couples and the combined 3-year old and two babies under 1 in September. Perhaps that was a year too soon, but too late now. On the other hand, it’s another extended weight training activity period for me. 🤣

Posted by Jackie in Musings, Netherlands, Places, 0 comments

Maastricht, Leiden, Amsterdam

The sunshine and blue sky for the first 2 weeks painted everything gloriously!

Maastricht

I spent my first 2 nights a couple of kms or so outside of Maastricht, which I chose to visit as it was within 25km of the Terhill Centerparcs. I didn’t really know what to expect, but I absolutely loved it and would recommend a visit.  This city of approx 123000 people was beautiful – on the banks of the Meuse river, with a historic cobbled centre including the university campus, lovely parks and river banks and of course amazing bike infrastructure – the Brompton was not too keen on the cobbles of which there were many, but dealt with them ok.

I took this last picture to remind me in the future of how the either-side pedestrian parts of the bridge ascended at the same time as the central part with people continuing their crossing! whilst the large boats/barges sailed on underneath.

 

 

Leiden

From Eindhoven I moved for a night to within 15 mins bike ride of Leiden’s historic city centre, the birthplace of Rembrandt and having the oldest university in the Netherlands. A similar size population-wise to Maastricht, with everything very accessible by bike of course.  I managed to get the last of 5 pitches in a little small-holding within a residential area for the price of 6 euros per night, plus optional 5eu for electricity. Perfect for a stopover. Lots of canals, and the Hortus Botanical Garden was a beautiful place in the centre.

 

What’s not to like.

 

Amsterdam

A short drive from Leiden, and having worked out where to park my high-sided vehicle for the Schipol airport pickup of my sisters, I arrived at my kind of town.

I had a pitch, they a room + bathroom (perhaps not as cheap as might be expected) for a 4-night stay in Camping Zeeburg, a few kms from the centre. Both bikes were now used every day for two visits in and around the centre, using one of the amazing inside free bikeparking provision at the central station, and then a 30-mile total bike ride out to the north and nature areas to a windmill museum. This last bike ride took us right across the main harbour entrance – using the major lock gate cycling/pedestrian ‘bridges’s for the large river cruise and cargo barges. 

The single-speed, pedal-backwards-to-brake hired bike took some getting used to by one of the party (not me), but after the 3 days she had just about got there.  No mishaps. We also did a canal boat tour which was enjoyable. 

The city centre was busy, but perhaps not too bad imo – maybe different in full Summer? We could not have had a better time, loved the central canal-based streets, marvelled again at the infrastructure.

Contrast this with the new tunnel just opened under the Thames in London, – in a city which has really gone for cycling and at least not bad for the UK – with no cycling lanes built as part of it. What lack of competence, joined-up bigger picture, or anti 15-minute town conspiracy theorist, or as usual money saving/car is the only thing in town thinking!!!  This youtube video shows an alternative approach:  https://youtu.be/JCedclz03uI?si=6Wcure8szVyhnVfQ

A comment in a vlog ‘American in Europe’ was ‘America is a business with customers, Europe is a society with people’. I feel that the American model describes the UK and the Netherlands shows part of the alternative.

Posted by admin in Equipment, Netherlands, Places

The Netherlands, & my travel, infrastructure

Heading on the way back to Rotterdam we met up with my eldest son and his German partner as they came across from Cologne. We stayed for one night in a BnB in the city of Eindhoven, Netherlands, which was a social enterprise within a large campus-type setting providing services and housing for people of all ages who are neuro-divergent or with mental health disabilities.

We spent the next day’s few hours together in a really amazing outdoor ‘Play Park’ for primary and younger children https://www.speelparkdesplinter.nl/english/. As long as the toddler is happy and the weather is pleasant, so are the adults! What a fantastic facility mainly run by volunteers with adults paying 1.50eu to get in. This trip’s travels with a toddler have worked once again.

The Netherlands is so impressive for taking advantage of its natural resources like flat landscapes and investing in the creation of life-friendly green and relaxing environments in its towns and cities, integrating pedestrians, cyclists, canals/waterways, parkland, roads, trams, cars etc. The car seems to be equal rather than king.

Imho, this provision is matched by the new piece of kit I wildly splashed out on this year. Although completely unlike the average dutch bike, my non-electric Brompton fits under the bed in the van alongside my other trusty steed and while I have done some longer bike rides to get used to its combination of hub and derailleur gears, it comes into its own as a quick get-about bike. It will also do for any guests and I am expecting some. I’m trying to get the folding and unfolding more efficient and get the right stuff-carrying equipment eventually. Further cycling kit in the shape of a child bike-seat has also been added to get the next generation used to bikes as soon as possible, but was one item too many to bring along for its potential 2 days of use.

Following last year’s van leisure battery problems, I have had a new one fitted, and am relieved to report that the van solar panel is keeping that topped up. This also means the fan installed last year is not causing electrical problems. Additional power can be supplied by the portable ‘Jackery’ battery and inverter, topped up by the van engine on the go or its 2 portable solar panels.  The LPG, topped up in the UK with the usual expected hassles!, is running the fridge. I’m definitely not an advert for filling up an LPG tank, yet it is fantastically good value and lasts for ages, so ultimately worth the ongoing infrequent pain of topping up. My goal of trying to avoid paying electricity charges is more achievable.

I was able to watch the FA cup via BBC Iplayer on my laptop. This was achieved via the tech which is not always successful, as it depends on a wifi or my phone mobile hotspot internet connection plus running a ‘VPN’ (virtual private network) enabling my location to be seen by the BBC etc as a UK one. 

The match was more than a week ago now, but the changed and problematic editing ‘infrastructure’ for this blog has taken me this long to find a solution for. I might well have given up with it all had it not been for the fact of paying for another 3 years of hosting the site at not insignificant cost! It does while away many of the solitary (not unhappy) hours I have, and keeps the grey cells for technology firing, but I need to keep up with recording and curating the content which is accumulating due to my many short-stop visits and do other things when not exploring like reading, rather than trouble-shooting technology. Plus ca change. I will also at some point within the next 3 years have to seriously address how to safeguard all my content for the long-term. That’s a challenge for digital journals, rather than paper.

Posted by admin in Equipment, Musings, Netherlands, Places