Life In New Lanes

Cycling Between The Cevennes & The Ardeche

Over the last few days the weather has been becoming more Mediterranean-like with beautiful blue/high-cloud skies and lots of sunshine illuminating this area in which sits my brother’s house in the village of Courry. It’s just as beautiful as when I last visited some 4 or 5 years ago. There are lots of spring flowers everywhere still, greenery and lovely smells of honeysuckle and jasmine. I have enjoyed staying once again in the house, its quirkiness still the same and my brother & sister-in-law have made really nice improvements as they have made it their own, not least good internet connection, keeping me in touch with the race for the Premier League title, and him with the Giro d’Italia.

My brother, being a keen cyclist, has explored the whole area by bike, and knows all the well-surfaced back roads up and down, with hardly a car in evidence. It’s been great to go out with him locally to the villages round about on 2 wheels rather than 4, but absolutely necessary here to have the electric motor assistance!  Yesterday saw the longest ride, a 30 mile tour including a significant part on the ‘Via Ardeche’ converted railway line and quiet lanes. All roads from and back to Courry  have significant climbs, which my brother is able to do on his trusty old ‘hybrid’ bike, rather than his 7kg! road bike back in the UK.

The rivers and their gorges round here include the Ceze, Ardeche and Chassezac, all with fantastic swimming and kayaking spots. Many, many beautiful villages, including Banne, Gagnieres, St Paul-le-Jeune and Montclus which we drove to today for a coffee and picnic. I recognized that I wanted to drive back as I used to to Mum waiting at the house, to tell her where we’d been. This was all her patch, which she then more thoroughly explored with her partner Jack, and she would be delighted to know the extent to which this part of her ‘inheritance’ has been embraced by her son and daughter-in-law and their numerous guests.

This stay comes to an end tomorrow when I drive back to Carcassonne to meet up with my sisters and spend a few days exploring from that base.  The weather forecast is for summer heat, increasing from 21deg today to the late 20s by the end of the week. We’ll hopefully be able to cycle along the FLAT Canal du Midi to the famous medieval cite, with other options to visit Narbonne or Perpignan, or back to Toulouse.

 

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places, 0 comments

Dune du Pilat, Pyla & Arcachon

This is such a beautiful area by the sea and I am sorry to be departing from Camping de Versalle tomorrow as I take this look back at the last two days.

The cycling here is great to get up and down the coast, flat, wide separated routes which I took advantage of particularly yesterday to do a 20 mile loop from here out to this magnificent highest sand dune complex in Europe, and then along the coast through Pyla to Arcachon and back.

Appearing above the tree line

The ‘attraction’ installation at the dune is really well done, but I’m sure it will be absolutely packed in high season. Unfortunately I had made the wrong decision – it has been known! – that I wouldn’t need my heavy-duty bike lock on this occasion, when precisely the opposite was true to enable me to ascend this monster.  I contented myself with pushing the bike along the sandy rising path as far as possible before facing the ascent, and no further. I watched a video presentation of its formation thousands of years ago and evolution over time, but short in contrast to how long the Pyrenees took to form. Well worth a read.

Enlarge the photo to see the dune in the distance

I had said on first glance after arrival that Arcachon reminded me of the Il de Re, but actually it’s on a larger scale.  The beautiful houses and wide boulevards of Pyla were more like Le Touquet or Berck Plage on the Channel/Manche coast, and both it and Arcachon had many Belle Epoque villas.  It wouldn’t be me if I didn’t include photos of the cycling provision.

Today as planned I mobilised myself to catch the 9.42 train for a few hours cycling round one of my favourite cities.  I do love a good river through well-planned public, beautiful spaces reflecting their historic and contemporary architecture setting. France does have the land, and the weather, but also the imagination and will for improving change!

On to Toulouse and its river.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places, 1 comment

Bassin d’Arcachon

A long time on my visit list, the Arcachon area on the Atlantic coast is about 200 miles from Le Dorat, once again via empty ‘D’ roads through historic villages to the fantastic dual carriage N141 which didn’t appear on my lorry satnav so built in the last few years, and then free autoroute A10 along and past Bordeaux. Beautiful countryside, fantastic roads, lovely weather again – definitely warm Spring rather than hot Summer, brought me to my first campsite in this resort area which was closed, despite being on all the apps I use. No problem as there are lots of alternatives, and I followed the nearby signs to the municipal campsite of Gujan-Mestras.

What another find! Right on the coastal path, with a beach about 3 mins walk away, although this is in a large inlet bay area, rather than ocean-facing. I have a lovely large pitch for the total cost of 20eu per night including tourist tax, but I’m not paying for electricity, relying on the solar panel on the van roof and my power pack lithium battery/inverter and its 2 portable panels. Oh and free wifi. Happy me.

The campsite is also 5 mins from the train station on the Bordeaux-Arcachon line – 45 min journey to Bordeaux for 12eu – and lots of cycling infrastructure so a cycle across from here to Pyla and the Dune du Pilat, plus a train re-visit to Bordeaux provides my next two days of exploring. It’s a definite start of season feel here and I’m sure it will be heaving with people and cars accessing these areas in a few weeks. It seems to me from my first ride to Arcachon yesterday very like the Il de Re & Oleron.

My next set of days from Wednesday to the following Tuesday has as of yesterday already been planned given the unexpected week’s visit of my brother to his house (formerly Mum’s) in the village of Courry, north of Nimes – see former post for its story. So I will do the driving down & across to the Mediterranean to pick him up at Perpignan airport, east to the Cevennes/Ardeche region for a few days and then back again to Carcassonne irrespective of the increased fuel cost – minimum 2.09eu a litre for diesel here. It will be great to spend a few days with him, the places and the memories.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Meetings - the non-work sort, Places, 1 comment

From Paris to the South West

I decided to revisit the Camping Sandaya in the town of Maisons-Lafitte on the banks of the Seine to the west of Paris from which a 5-minute walk/cycle to the station will bring you + bike to the Arc de Trimphe station. Everything worked – it’s a lovely campsite offering an out of season price of 21eu plus tourist tax for the pitch, 2 adults including electricity, with shop cafe/restaurant and swimming pool. Raised a smile about my & friend’s tent stopover in abit of mud on the bikepacking ride at the end of last season!

The next day I enjoyed cycling round some of the main Paris landmarks I’d missed back in September.

On the campsite side of the Seine

Another night beckoned with good weather the next day, so I decided to cycle some of the Dieppe to Paris route along the river before crossing it to get to Versailles.

Suffice to say, this was a somewhat naive plan, slightly offset by the glorious sunlit route of the flat waterside distance in the well-heeled burbs, wooed by the Paris cycling infrastructure, which doesn’t necessarily extend to the hills and dual carriageways up, over and under which (fortunately) my legs had to push my bike. It was some of those ‘where is flippin’ Versailles’ as the climb went on & on, and ‘am I going to end up on a dual carriage/motorway with no way back’ stress-building thoughts. I obviously made it, and collapsed to enjoy the coffee – the prospect with which I had kept myself going.

This was my second lifetime visit to the park area, the first I think when I was a student back in the day. I was struck by how extensive it was. I could see the lovely palaces in their setting, but chose not to go in instead enjoying all the tourist and parisien life of all ages cycling, walking, rowing, picnicking and sightseeing by electric car and little bus.

Knowing that I could get a train to the La Defense station and then change to one to my town, for the sum of 2.55eu gave me the reassuring return journey. Nevertheless following satnav to get to this Versailles station proved somewhat tortuous, so all in all I knew I’d earned a complete do nothingness when I finally got off the train knowing my pad was thankfully just round a few corners.

Now I’m at the end of the next day’s well-judged departure and travel plans. Good weather is forecast for the south west coast near Bordeaux for the next 2-3 days, so it’s been time to move on. Today has reached 24deg but being Saturday, the roads were empty. When was the last time a main road – the free autoroute A10 between Vierzon and Limoges – looked as empty as this in England?  The Creuse Valley region certainly looks worth a visit.

An interesting observation of myself is that if I get used to a site and enjoy being there, I tend to subconsciously assume a more defensive posture and expectation of the next journey and place.  And yet once underway this tends to dissipate.

My thoughts while driving for some of this afternoon went to remembering individual family and friends whose life has ended – at least on this earth -, and how absurd and therefore horrific their death is; all that character, personhood, relationship, love, has just simply disappeared abruptly. It’s a very very deep and expansive ‘missing them’ and plaintiff cry ‘where are you’, which also contributed to some wakefulness last night. Inevitable more frequent thought patterns as I and loved ones get older.

I have stopped half-way in the region between Poitiers and Limoges, following the recommendation of one of my catalogue of Motorhome Monthly Magazine articles from 2018 I think, for the municipal campsite at the little historic town Le Dorat.  This is now being operated on the platform/scheme campercarpark.com, for what appears to be less than 10eu per night, (bit of confusion re having to buy a credit-loading card for re-use as well as the stopover) including electricity, little toilet/shower block, 5 mins walk to the town square with cafe, boulangerie, even a cinema. How lovely is all this.

 

 

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Musings, Places, 2 comments

2026 France, Germany, Netherlands

The 2026 trip was officially put into operation a month or so ago with the booking of the ferry to France. The plans were considered in the shadow of the Trump & Netanyahu and their governments’-induced needless loss of hundreds if not thousands of innocent lives from illegal bombings & targeting of civilians in Iran & Lebanon, reciprocal shelling on sites in the Gulf states, shortages of resources with impact for food production across the world, and other significant impact on global economies and the person in the street arising from this and the diesel price instability and hikes and fuel shortages, adding to the continuing Israeli genocide and ethnic cleansing of Gaza and the West Bank, and of course Ukraine still fighting off the other tyrant. I’ll record these unprecedented, at least in my lifetime, sufferings whose responsibility falls according to my study on those 3 war criminals and their sycophantic, greedy and power-addicted enablers, for when I may look back from however my near-future unfolds.

At the moment this minion is fortunate and thankful to be many steps removed from all this. Since last writing, two grandsons have been born to my daughter and youngest son and their partners. I was struck on visiting to give them all a last hug before this grand depart, by how much I will miss the little ones. I am able to enjoy spending alot of time with them, and other little great nieces and nephew who also live locally, which is such a joy despite being knackering. My granddaughter who is now almost 3, loves coming into ‘Nanavan’ and when I opened the bathroom door to remind her of what was behind it, she again caused such a laugh with her main  expression of toilet expertise – namely “is that a soft-close lid?” My little shower room equipment doesn’t thankfully extend to a hand dryer, of which she is pathologically scared.

My choice of day to drive towards the south coast avoiding bank holiday Monday traffic proved wise as once again I entered into a very nostalgia-evoking memory lane with Heart 70s radio. A lovely journey break and stop over with relatives near Oxford and then the ferry with a calm sea and bright day heading for Le Havre, France from Portsmouth. No reservations initially but just target places on my travel list to Carcassone and then upto Germany & the Netherlands.

Off the ferry and we were not put through any Schengen border new requirements. The 2-hour journey to the planned first night stopover at the free motorhome parking provided by Giverny, worked. How fantastic to be on the continent where the philosophy hasn’t been to monetise every blade of grass or parking space. What would have been the overnight cost was able to be spent on the entrance fee for the Monet museum, house and garden. Very busy it has to be said, causing me not to want to join the big queue to get into the house from the gardens, but I got the picture! 🙂 Heavy overnight rain had dissipated and it’s been a really pleasant day. Am so happy in this free setting that I’m staying another night, and then will head to a site closer towards Paris for a day of train plus cycle tomorrow. Just one minor annoyance in that there’s a known problem with my TV aerial which needed fixing and I had forgotten about it. This realisation was prompted by the concept of trying to see if PSG vs Bayern Munich might be available this evening so that I could watch some good football and see who Arsenal will meet in the Champions League final.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Musings, Places, 2 comments

Paris à Velo

Cycling the 5km to our Aparthotel Home & Break in the Porte de Choisy, Place d’Italie area south east from our arrival at Notre Dame, was a slightly uphill affair but continued our initial journey on different types of the Paris cycling infrastructure. Our room was on the 6th floor with small kitchenette including sink, fridge, microwave, kettle, very comfy beds, with enough space to take the bikes up to, preferring to do this and seek forgiveness after rather than be reliant on asking for a key from the often busy reception for their official bike store. This cost approx £360 for 4 nights, and absolutely met our needs with the exception of being pretty hot as the windows could only be unlocked by someone from reception on safety grounds, and the cool aircon having been switched off for the whole hotel given the autumn/winter season. Complete luxury nevertheless compared to the toilet requirements during the camping cold nights and deflating (expensive) mat which I forgot to mention previously. The area was a ‘China/East Asia’ town, so we enjoyed some Thai food one evening.

We loved our three days exploring, on now unladen bikes, many of the city’s sights in fantastic weather 🙂 including going into the cathedral, the Jardin des Plantes, the Bastille monument, Place de la Republique, the Bassin de La Villete, the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Bassin de la Villette

Always an enhancement to listen to some quality live music:

 

We even managed to meet up with my brother and cycling buddy who had cycled from Caen to the Mediterranean and training it back to the ferry had a 4 hour transfer time in Paris, so we cycled once again along the Seine and upto the Montmartre area and Sacre Coeur.

So that ticked two off of this trip’s aims – bikepacking with a tent & seeing more of Paris.  Re the latter, we didn’t cycle up the Champs Elysee, or along to the Eiffel Tower, nor the Tuileries or Louvre, and plenty more for next time.

But as for the cycling infrastructure – absolutely amazing.  I think every street or road we needed to use from the outskirts and throughout the centre had some absolutely clear provision or other for bikes. It seemed to me that cars definitely did not have priority, and even though I think their numbers have significantly diminished over the last years since the major push for cycling, walking and public transport, still they were caught in jams and could not compete with the efficiency and effectiveness of travel with 2 wheels. It took us some time to understand what we had to look for when it came to navigating intersections, as there was a variety of different cycle lane approaches, and traffic lights were not as responsive as they could be which imo leads to a significant amount of red-light jumping by cyclists.  One of the principles adopted in the Netherlands for cycling infrastructure design is to keep bikes moving and this was the approach adopted anyway by the majority of cyclists in Paris 🙂

There are loads of bike maps for Paris on the internet and youtube videos of how this really radical, significant change in such a relatively short time has occured, not least https://youtu.be/woFlJx7Rv78?si=JjZF3LBvfMjwcPVO  & Paris en Selle.

After 3 days we were ready for the return journey home getting the bikes on the train and travelling from Gare St Lazare to Rouen, then change to Dieppe. This did involve having to book the bikes onto the Rouen train, then hang them in the allotted place for the journey necessitating the removal of the paniers etc, and then have a somewhat stressful time doing the transfer to the Dieppe train in 10 minutes – the Paris train was thankfully on time. A tick for French trains so far.

We managed it, and arrived to rain in Dieppe and a short ride to the ferry port for the 6pm crossing back to the campervan and the journey to North Yorkshire.

A good ferry crossing again, despite the Storm Amy warnings for the north, and a good non-stop journey in the van. This was despite navigating the one-junction full closure of the M1 around Northampton, but absolutely helped by Greatest Hits 70s radio and additional sing-along by this first mate.

Would I do it again?  Yes for the bikepacking, trains etc, camping with the caveat of being in warmer climes and a mattress that doesn’t deflate in the night.

Last but not least – here’s the star of the show – ie my Brompton. Not particularly liking the field tracks or cobbles but managed the weight of all the stuff and the miles, and responded like a thoroughbred to the city.  The genuine face of delight on the rider trying it out for the first time says it all  🤣 🚴‍.

Posted by admin in Cities-Towns, Equipment, France, Musings, Places
Load more