Life In New Lanes

Cologne Family Gathering

It was a good drive the 270 or so miles from Turckheim to a few kms south of Cologne, and by lucky chance I was doing it on a german bank holiday where most lorries are not allowed to be on the motorways. This meant that I could mostly drive at my preferred 58mph, well below any motorway speed limit in that country, on a two-lane road where legally the signs indicate lorries are not allowed to overtake. I had once or twice to use an exit slip lane to let a justifiably hacked-off lorry driver overtake, thereby getting him (it usually is) away from my van’s backside.

I had booked the Cologne City campsite as last year for Friday to Monday but it was fully booked for the Thursday. Park4Night happily had suggestions for road parking in a business park in the south of the city, so Blue found its place in front of a Volvo dealership and I cycled the 6km to my son & partner’s flat. The next day I did a first and rode pillion on my son’s Vespa, which he had gone to great bureaucratic lengths last year to import, to get back to the van to drive it to the campsite. The scooter, which he calls Terzaghi, has really found its purpose in the less rain, more conducive to vehicles and 2 wheels other than cars Manchester, Cologne. (I think I like this german method of more complex sentence construction). It’s used for all manner of quick journeys, which are longer than those done on his bikes. In the Netherlands, these can also be ridden on the bike paths! Car parking is the challenge in the city, so if you’ve managed to snaffle a space close by, you don’t want to move your car unless you really have to. And it’s honestly not necessary for anywhere within the city you might want to go – two legs, or two wheels get you everywhere, and if not, trams are fantastic. The flat is 10 mins walk to lovely parks, and to the Rhein river, as well as all the cafes/restaurants of a lively city. Bikes and scooters can be locked up and left in the tree-lined walkways in the middle of these old streets or many of the old apartment buildings have basement store rooms.

Having got the van happily ensconced in the campsite, I now cycled my e-bike with kid’s bike seat back to the flat to await the arrival of daughter and son-in-law plus granddaughter nearly 3, and grandson 6 months. I was also able to stay at the flat for the 3 nights on their sofa-bed with essential eye-mask, but had to be prepared for daddy to bring the baby into the living room from potentially 5am!! if he could not be settled, as is their usual modus operandi. Fortunately we had from around 5.30 – 7am across the 3 mornings, while the others slept on.

I had bought a child-seat for the Brompton, so the aim 🙄 was for us all to do a ‘lovely’ bike ride along the river on the Saturday. Whilst my granddaughter was perfectly happy now at her great age to sit on this and ride along, having been resistant at a younger age to the proper Thule bike seat, the 6-month old was also very frightened and unhappy to say the least, to sit on this latter for any length of time. Flexibility is the unavoidable name of the game. We ended up spending a couple of hours in the lovely nearby park, reassuring our little girl that there was nothing to be scared about by the man inconsiderately vacuuming up water and leaves out of the pedaloes near where we were sitting in the cafe for some lunch! Gardening equipment noise is also added to that of toilet hand-dryers on the list of threats.

Sunday’s nicer weather replacing changeable 17deg, the heatwave having been and gone, rewarded the risk taken in booking a few weeks prior quite an expensive trip to the nearby Phantasienland – Cologne’s Alton Towers equivalent. Would the children be ok for this with loud noise, lots of people etc etc, gulp? After a shaky start, things picked up. My granddaughter loved the toddler rides, the dragons walking round, the sun shone, queues not too long for the adult rides, and my primary job, not being a theme park fan, of looking after the baby, was just about managed. Not because he was unhappy, but because to keep him happy requires constant carrying, and he’s a bruiser. What he is most unhelpfully not happy about is for the most part sitting in the pram. I thought the park was absolutely fantastic – the set designs, rides, provision for toddlers, including a water park, plenty of staff keeping all of the place clean, lots of eateries with nice food. THANK GOODNESS a good time was had by all, given the money spent!

Monday was the grand depart with the hosts needing to be at their home-working desks for 8am virtual meetings. The logistics therefore involved first getting the spare bedroom vacated with all bags and gubbins moved into the living room, so that Jen’s working environment could be displaced from this into that, and Luke working in their bedroom for his early meetings. He then had time to  indispensably help with the great move of all stuff down the stairs to the pavement, as the flat is on the 3rd floor where the floors are double-height, no lift in these old buildings, and the car to be brought to as nearby as possible. I meanwhile had two bikes to get across the river to the campsite, with cycling obviating the need for a car journey to go right to the outskirts of the city so as to use one of the dual carriageway bridges over the Rhein.

A british person may have thought this preposterous and absolutely bonkers, but not a Cambodian or even particularly northern European city dweller.

Thanks & credit go to our wonderful hosts. They offered such welcoming hospitality to the invaders of their lovely dinky environment.

And so, off to the next stop with the family – a Eurocamp static on a campsite between the city of Leiden and the north sea.

Posted by Jackie in Equipment, Germany, Places, 0 comments

50th Anniversary Meetup

When I and my longest-standing friend Carole were 16, we went on our first independent little holiday youth-hostelling in the Yorkshire Dales. So it was a great pleasure to be able to celebrate this anniversary with a travels meet-up again as our paths on the way to Austria and from Annecy to Cologne were able to cross in Colmar in France’s Alsace region.

The driving’s musings this time included thoughts about the way this area, with it’s germanic names, had passed back and forth between the two countries. I had to do a double-think at times to make sure I had not gone wrong and ended up in Germany.

We stayed at a campsite in the wine village of Turckheim, 7km cycling along the river and through the vineyards to the lovely historic centre of Colmar. We actually did some wine-tasting in the ‘caves’ of the village, took the bus to the town, as well as a concert in the village church of baroque music including Handel’s Messiah from the two choirs in the village. Colmar was definitely a bigger town than I was expecting, although the centre was quite compact.

Love whiling away time in beautiful city parks

Carole moved on looking forward to Austria and I stayed for a further 3 nights, enjoying cycling the e-bike (hills!) along the Munster valley, walking above the village among the vineyards, and back into Colmar, girding my loins for the week ahead in Cologne then the Netherlands with  grandchildren.

There’s loads more to explore in this area, being in the foothills of the Vosges mountains with tourist buses doing circuits in the Summer season, and very well-served by public transport. Strasbourg and Mulhouse are about 1 hour away by train, so it’s definitely worth another visit.

Posted by admin in France, Places, 1 comment

Annecy – Beyond Expectations

The lake, the town, the tourism infrastructure including for lake swimming and fantastic safe cycling most of the way round the lake, and the campsite I’m on
could not be better for me.

Definitely a place for families, and this 4-star Camping Europa, which I had understood would cost me approx 35eu per night turned out to be in the ACSI out of season scheme. So I count myself fortunate to end up here because targeted other sites cheaper than the 27eu per night scheme cost I have now happily paid for 4 nights for the pitch, 2 adults incl electricity, were all fully booked. The really spacious pitches are under the trees, with their own water supply. Every time I go into the toilet block I am impressed. Not bling, just quality with more than enough showers, sinks, toilets, washing up and laundry points etc. The swimming/splash pool for babies upwards is great for children, and there is a smaller pool just for adults. What’s needed in the heatwave. It’s about 1km from the municipal beach on the lake at St Joriaz, and we are 10kms along the for much of it road-sized cycle route to the town itself.

Everyone, all ages and types cycle up and down the lake on the flat route certainly on the west side, and  probably mostly on electric. But I did the 30 miles perimeter on the brompton, so electric is absolutely not needed here. I am seeing loads of lycra-clad females of all ages on their road bikes and in their clubs, including loads of people in their 70s & 80s, as well as using their bikes for transport or leisure.

I feel the density of population in England is a big factor in the lack of cycling provision due to the competition for space, as well as certain vested interests with an agenda to pit car against bike. But nevertheless well done to my european neighbours for their political will to take space from the car in many cases to enable cycling for transport as well as leisure. I hope my grandchildren will be able to experience the joys of this type of freer environment at least on holiday, and I can try and help make that happen.

I will be sorry to be leaving tomorrow, but looking forward to meeting up with friends and family over the next two weeks.

Posted by Jackie in France, Places, 2 comments

Carcassonne, Les Trois Sorcieres and Heading North

I am now 200 miles north in Puy-En-Velay, having left Crones (term coined – affectionately? – by my ex-hubs) 2 & 3 at the airport for their return flight.  The days have of course passed so quickly, but everything ‘worked’ as we hoped and the happy times have continued, at least for me!

The heat has been increasing day by day and now most of France is enjoying or despairing of temperatures 10 – 15 degrees above normal, reaching mid thirties. It is though still cooling down in the night for good sleeping. On day 1 we enjoyed our bike ride 15km along the Canal du Midi to arrive at the square in front of the train station in the middle of ‘le Bastide’ – the medieval town which for many decades/centuries? was in competition with the fortified 13th century Cite on the hill across the river. Walking up to, and round this in the heat, followed by the bike ride back, soon reduced the usual gushing, me included, about the fantastic weather of those just arrived from the UK. But the campsite-now -become-a-holiday park with touring provision no longer – held out its jewel in the crown, the heated swimming pool. This we had more or less to ourselves after our days’ outings until Friday, so the daily schedule included this swim followed by shandies and beer served by Pierre the restaurant manager in the bar. He was very glad to have our custom and all the staff were really pleasant, preparing the site for increasing holiday traffic week by week.

We were allocated a cabin at the furthest corner of the site??, and had mostly no neighbours which enabled us to really enjoy the day’s final activity before bed – ie sitting outside on our balmy (the occupants 🤣or  sunset warmth?) decking, with the reddening sky in the distance, blasting out on the campervan’s sound system  – the mini-speaker – with our tuneful accompaniment musical memory lanes. These included Gilbert O’Sullivan, Genesis, Supertramp, Beach Boys, Doobies, David Cassidy, adding to summer classics as we returned from our outing in the van to Narbonne typified by ‘Lovely Day’. We even had a line dancing session led by Crone 3 on the next door cabin’s empty decking, but for some line-dancing purist reason she wouldn’t do it to Achy Breaky Heart.

I loved the walk through the Bastide, discovering the beautiful main square, where we had lunch on our 2nd day of visit, this time getting there by a 1-mile walk to the village of Trebes to catch a bus. After a very interesting exploration of the Cite Chateau and finding the widow’s mite in the form of Crone 2’s (Sandie’s) essential cap left behind in a shop we eventually returned to the station square dodging the sun whilst upping our pace despite la chaleur to make the timetable. Tired and hot, we waited about 15 mins for the correct bus at the drop-off stop only to be told that we needed the bus going in the other direction which was at a different stop and turned into another 15 minute wait. Our happiness at being able to get on a bus for 30 minutes rest whilst nevertheless still anticipating the 1-mile scorching trek across the fields to the cabin, was destroyed by this driver’s brusque explanation that his bus was not going to Trebes.

It was at this point, realising that a further 30 mins wait at the side of the hot busy road was required for the correct bus finally, that we quickly agreed with Sandie’s proposal of a very good deal 19eu uber ride – which she said had reduced from somewhere around 40 according to her previous research, due to uber’s price flexing. She is the expert amongst us on this. We concurred that our return journey for the day had therefore cost us 1eu on the bus journey plus about 5 for the uber. Result. Within 2 minutes along came a Tesla driven by a young man in his twenties who very early on in the journey proceeded to almost get the car stuck in a very, very narrow tunnel. The trims on the car’s very large wheels were gauged against the kerb within it and we could see on the large screen how the poor car was suffering in its position. Unfortunately the Tesla hasn’t as yet incorporated the function of making itself narrower. He said he’d done this before, but we didn’t believe him. Can you imagine the conversation between the the crones, due to age no longer constrained by social niceties and then him, in French and English, particularly as we were initially rather hyperly jubilant to climb into a car – and could it not be a Tesla next time – offering a lift door to door as it were. We did explain that no alcohol had been consumed. Having managed to actually get the car out of the tunnel, so we didn’t have to climb through a window, he then proceeded to drive in the wrong rush-hour direction down by the canal still within the town, into a dead-end little street. As we tried to say nicely that this was not what we were expecting in terms of a route to Trebes, he triumphantly pulled up in front of a gate at the end with a sign on the gatepost saying ‘La Commanderie’, …….the same name as our holiday park. All was revealed and we weren’t at least in the hands of a kidnapper. We were obviously not getting out here, and he was happy to carry on driving to our re- stated destination, so 30 mins later Sandie was paying the algorithm’s now sum total of 60eu!!! An appeal was hatched immediately as Deb & I enjoyed the swim, and literally within 10s of minutes the AI agent had agreed the original charge and promised a refund. I won’t hear a word against that AI. From the depths to the heights once again. What a day.

Friday’s trip planning quickly settled on the van’s 4 wheels to Narbonne rather than via Carcassonne for the train. Easy drive through the vineyards to the coastal lagoons. What another lovely small town, both the former and latter with population sizes of between 45 to 60k. Historic main square and medieval streets, 12th-13th century Archbishops palace and cathedral and the tree-lined Canal de la Robine running through the centre. In the afternoon we headed to the sea at Narbonne Plage, with the return journey including the really beautiful drive through the ‘La Clape’ wine area. The sand was literally already too hot to walk on barefoot, but it was great to float around abit in the clear, flat Mediterranean.

Given the distances involved and the potential to meet up with an old friend, I have decided to make my way sooner to Annecy near Geneva. The route today included the running out of scenic superlatives free A75 motorway bordering the Tarn Gorge & the west of the Cevennes, across the absolutely stunning Milau bridge from the south, up and down mountains, reaching 1200m, and then on empty minor roads across the high uplands with pastures and cattle, to the Allier valley. After 5-6 hours of driving I arrived at my 12eu per night municipal campsite right in the middle of this historic town famous amongst other monuments etc for the start of the French Camino to Spain’s Santiago de Compostela. I got the second to last pitch hallelujah.

This is such a good time to travel in France without needing to book due to the season just beginning, but already the cheaper campsites I enquired of today near Annecy are full. From Monday I will be on a 4-star pitch without an ACSI out of season reduction. Tomorrow is my exploration of Le Puy and the heatwave is set to continue.

The original joy of campervanning

 

Posted by admin in France, 0 comments

Cycling Between The Cevennes & The Ardeche

Over the last few days the weather has been becoming more Mediterranean-like with beautiful blue/high-cloud skies and lots of sunshine illuminating this area in which sits my brother’s house in the village of Courry. It’s just as beautiful as when I last visited some 4 or 5 years ago. There are lots of spring flowers everywhere still, greenery and lovely smells of honeysuckle and jasmine. I have enjoyed staying once again in the house, its quirkiness still the same and my brother & sister-in-law have made really nice improvements as they have made it their own, not least good internet connection, keeping me in touch with the race for the Premier League title, and him with the Giro d’Italia.

My brother, being a keen cyclist, has explored the whole area by bike, and knows all the well-surfaced back roads up and down, with hardly a car in evidence. It’s been great to go out with him locally to the villages round about on 2 wheels rather than 4, but absolutely necessary here to have the electric motor assistance!  Yesterday saw the longest ride, a 30 mile tour including a significant part on the ‘Via Ardeche’ converted railway line and quiet lanes. All roads from and back to Courry  have significant climbs, which my brother is able to do on his trusty old ‘hybrid’ bike, rather than his 7kg! road bike back in the UK.

The rivers and their gorges round here include the Ceze, Ardeche and Chassezac, all with fantastic swimming and kayaking spots. Many, many beautiful villages, including Banne, Gagnieres, St Paul-le-Jeune and Montclus which we drove to today for a coffee and picnic. I recognized that I wanted to drive back as I used to to Mum waiting at the house, to tell her where we’d been. This was all her patch, which she then more thoroughly explored with her partner Jack, and she would be delighted to know the extent to which this part of her ‘inheritance’ has been embraced by her son and daughter-in-law and their numerous guests.

This stay comes to an end tomorrow when I drive back to Carcassonne to meet up with my sisters and spend a few days exploring from that base.  The weather forecast is for summer heat, increasing from 21deg today to the late 20s by the end of the week. We’ll hopefully be able to cycle along the FLAT Canal du Midi to the famous medieval cite, with other options to visit Narbonne or Perpignan, or back to Toulouse.

 

Posted by Jackie in France, Places

Dune du Pilat, Pyla & Arcachon

This is such a beautiful area by the sea and I am sorry to be departing from Camping de Versalle tomorrow as I take this look back at the last two days.

The cycling here is great to get up and down the coast, flat, wide separated routes which I took advantage of particularly yesterday to do a 20 mile loop from here out to this magnificent highest sand dune complex in Europe, and then along the coast through Pyla to Arcachon and back.

Appearing above the tree line

The ‘attraction’ installation at the dune is really well done, but I’m sure it will be absolutely packed in high season. Unfortunately I had made the wrong decision – it has been known! – that I wouldn’t need my heavy-duty bike lock on this occasion, when precisely the opposite was true to enable me to ascend this monster.  I contented myself with pushing the bike along the sandy rising path as far as possible before facing the ascent, and no further. I watched a video presentation of its formation thousands of years ago and evolution over time, but short in contrast to how long the Pyrenees took to form. Well worth a read.

Enlarge the photo to see the dune in the distance

I had said on first glance after arrival that Arcachon reminded me of the Il de Re, but actually it’s on a larger scale.  The beautiful houses and wide boulevards of Pyla were more like Le Touquet or Berck Plage on the Channel/Manche coast, and both it and Arcachon had many Belle Epoque villas.  It wouldn’t be me if I didn’t include photos of the cycling provision.

Today as planned I mobilised myself to catch the 9.42 train for a few hours cycling round one of my favourite cities.  I do love a good river through well-planned public, beautiful spaces reflecting their historic and contemporary architecture setting. France does have the land, and the weather, but also the imagination and will for improving change!

On to Toulouse and its river.

Posted by Jackie in France, Places
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