Musings

From Paris to the South West

I decided to revisit the Camping Sandaya in the town of Maisons-Lafitte on the banks of the Seine to the west of Paris from which a 5-minute walk/cycle to the station will bring you + bike to the Arc de Trimphe station. Everything worked – it’s a lovely campsite offering an out of season price of 21eu plus tourist tax for the pitch, 2 adults including electricity, with shop cafe/restaurant and swimming pool. Raised a smile about my & friend’s tent stopover in abit of mud on the bikepacking ride at the end of last season!

The next day I enjoyed cycling round some of the main Paris landmarks I’d missed back in September.

On the campsite side of the Seine

Another night beckoned with good weather the next day, so I decided to cycle some of the Dieppe to Paris route along the river before crossing it to get to Versailles.

Suffice to say, this was a somewhat naive plan, slightly offset by the glorious sunlit route of the flat waterside distance in the well-heeled burbs, wooed by the Paris cycling infrastructure, which doesn’t necessarily extend to the hills and dual carriageways up, over and under which (fortunately) my legs had to push my bike. It was some of those ‘where is flippin’ Versailles’ as the climb went on & on, and ‘am I going to end up on a dual carriage/motorway with no way back’ stress-building thoughts. I obviously made it, and collapsed to enjoy the coffee – the prospect with which I had kept myself going.

This was my second lifetime visit to the park area, the first I think when I was a student back in the day. I was struck by how extensive it was. I could see the lovely palaces in their setting, but chose not to go in instead enjoying all the tourist and parisien life of all ages cycling, walking, rowing, picnicking and sightseeing by electric car and little bus.

Knowing that I could get a train to the La Defense station and then change to one to my town, for the sum of 2.55eu gave me the reassuring return journey. Nevertheless following satnav to get to this Versailles station proved somewhat tortuous, so all in all I knew I’d earned a complete do nothingness when I finally got off the train knowing my pad was thankfully just round a few corners.

Now I’m at the end of the next day’s well-judged departure and travel plans. Good weather is forecast for the south west coast near Bordeaux for the next 2-3 days, so it’s been time to move on. Today has reached 24deg but being Saturday, the roads were empty. When was the last time a main road – the free autoroute A10 between Vierzon and Limoges – looked as empty as this in England?  The Creuse Valley region certainly looks worth a visit.

An interesting observation of myself is that if I get used to a site and enjoy being there, I tend to subconsciously assume a more defensive posture and expectation of the next journey and place.  And yet once underway this tends to dissipate.

My thoughts while driving for some of this afternoon went to remembering individual family and friends whose life has ended – at least on this earth -, and how absurd and therefore horrific their death is; all that character, personhood, relationship, love, has just simply disappeared abruptly. It’s a very very deep and expansive ‘missing them’ and plaintiff cry ‘where are you’, which also contributed to some wakefulness last night. Inevitable more frequent thought patterns as I and loved ones get older.

I have stopped half-way in the region between Poitiers and Limoges, following the recommendation of one of my catalogue of Motorhome Monthly Magazine articles from 2018 I think, for the municipal campsite at the little historic town Le Dorat.  This is now being operated on the platform/scheme campercarpark.com, for what appears to be less than 10eu per night, (bit of confusion re having to buy a credit-loading card for re-use as well as the stopover) including electricity, little toilet/shower block, 5 mins walk to the town square with cafe, boulangerie, even a cinema. How lovely is all this.

 

 

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Musings, Places, 2 comments

2026 France, Germany, Netherlands

The 2026 trip was officially put into operation a month or so ago with the booking of the ferry to France. The plans were considered in the shadow of the Trump & Netanyahu and their governments’-induced needless loss of hundreds if not thousands of innocent lives from illegal bombings & targeting of civilians in Iran & Lebanon, reciprocal shelling on sites in the Gulf states, shortages of resources with impact for food production across the world, and other significant impact on global economies and the person in the street arising from this and the diesel price instability and hikes and fuel shortages, adding to the continuing Israeli genocide and ethnic cleansing of Gaza and the West Bank, and of course Ukraine still fighting off the other tyrant. I’ll record these unprecedented, at least in my lifetime, sufferings whose responsibility falls according to my study on those 3 war criminals and their sycophantic, greedy and power-addicted enablers, for when I may look back from however my near-future unfolds.

At the moment this minion is fortunate and thankful to be many steps removed from all this. Since last writing, two grandsons have been born to my daughter and youngest son and their partners. I was struck on visiting to give them all a last hug before this grand depart, by how much I will miss the little ones. I am able to enjoy spending alot of time with them, and other little great nieces and nephew who also live locally, which is such a joy despite being knackering. My granddaughter who is now almost 3, loves coming into ‘Nanavan’ and when I opened the bathroom door to remind her of what was behind it, she again caused such a laugh with her main  expression of toilet expertise – namely “is that a soft-close lid?” My little shower room equipment doesn’t thankfully extend to a hand dryer, of which she is pathologically scared.

My choice of day to drive towards the south coast avoiding bank holiday Monday traffic proved wise as once again I entered into a very nostalgia-evoking memory lane with Heart 70s radio. A lovely journey break and stop over with relatives near Oxford and then the ferry with a calm sea and bright day heading for Le Havre, France from Portsmouth. No reservations initially but just target places on my travel list to Carcassone and then upto Germany & the Netherlands.

Off the ferry and we were not put through any Schengen border new requirements. The 2-hour journey to the planned first night stopover at the free motorhome parking provided by Giverny, worked. How fantastic to be on the continent where the philosophy hasn’t been to monetise every blade of grass or parking space. What would have been the overnight cost was able to be spent on the entrance fee for the Monet museum, house and garden. Very busy it has to be said, causing me not to want to join the big queue to get into the house from the gardens, but I got the picture! 🙂 Heavy overnight rain had dissipated and it’s been a really pleasant day. Am so happy in this free setting that I’m staying another night, and then will head to a site closer towards Paris for a day of train plus cycle tomorrow. Just one minor annoyance in that there’s a known problem with my TV aerial which needed fixing and I had forgotten about it. This realisation was prompted by the concept of trying to see if PSG vs Bayern Munich might be available this evening so that I could watch some good football and see who Arsenal will meet in the Champions League final.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Musings, Places, 2 comments

Paris à Velo

Cycling the 5km to our Aparthotel Home & Break in the Porte de Choisy, Place d’Italie area south east from our arrival at Notre Dame, was a slightly uphill affair but continued our initial journey on different types of the Paris cycling infrastructure. Our room was on the 6th floor with small kitchenette including sink, fridge, microwave, kettle, very comfy beds, with enough space to take the bikes up to, preferring to do this and seek forgiveness after rather than be reliant on asking for a key from the often busy reception for their official bike store. This cost approx £360 for 4 nights, and absolutely met our needs with the exception of being pretty hot as the windows could only be unlocked by someone from reception on safety grounds, and the cool aircon having been switched off for the whole hotel given the autumn/winter season. Complete luxury nevertheless compared to the toilet requirements during the camping cold nights and deflating (expensive) mat which I forgot to mention previously. The area was a ‘China/East Asia’ town, so we enjoyed some Thai food one evening.

We loved our three days exploring, on now unladen bikes, many of the city’s sights in fantastic weather 🙂 including going into the cathedral, the Jardin des Plantes, the Bastille monument, Place de la Republique, the Bassin de La Villete, the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Bassin de la Villette

Always an enhancement to listen to some quality live music:

 

We even managed to meet up with my brother and cycling buddy who had cycled from Caen to the Mediterranean and training it back to the ferry had a 4 hour transfer time in Paris, so we cycled once again along the Seine and upto the Montmartre area and Sacre Coeur.

So that ticked two off of this trip’s aims – bikepacking with a tent & seeing more of Paris.  Re the latter, we didn’t cycle up the Champs Elysee, or along to the Eiffel Tower, nor the Tuileries or Louvre, and plenty more for next time.

But as for the cycling infrastructure – absolutely amazing.  I think every street or road we needed to use from the outskirts and throughout the centre had some absolutely clear provision or other for bikes. It seemed to me that cars definitely did not have priority, and even though I think their numbers have significantly diminished over the last years since the major push for cycling, walking and public transport, still they were caught in jams and could not compete with the efficiency and effectiveness of travel with 2 wheels. It took us some time to understand what we had to look for when it came to navigating intersections, as there was a variety of different cycle lane approaches, and traffic lights were not as responsive as they could be which imo leads to a significant amount of red-light jumping by cyclists.  One of the principles adopted in the Netherlands for cycling infrastructure design is to keep bikes moving and this was the approach adopted anyway by the majority of cyclists in Paris 🙂

There are loads of bike maps for Paris on the internet and youtube videos of how this really radical, significant change in such a relatively short time has occured, not least https://youtu.be/woFlJx7Rv78?si=JjZF3LBvfMjwcPVO  & Paris en Selle.

After 3 days we were ready for the return journey home getting the bikes on the train and travelling from Gare St Lazare to Rouen, then change to Dieppe. This did involve having to book the bikes onto the Rouen train, then hang them in the allotted place for the journey necessitating the removal of the paniers etc, and then have a somewhat stressful time doing the transfer to the Dieppe train in 10 minutes – the Paris train was thankfully on time. A tick for French trains so far.

We managed it, and arrived to rain in Dieppe and a short ride to the ferry port for the 6pm crossing back to the campervan and the journey to North Yorkshire.

A good ferry crossing again, despite the Storm Amy warnings for the north, and a good non-stop journey in the van. This was despite navigating the one-junction full closure of the M1 around Northampton, but absolutely helped by Greatest Hits 70s radio and additional sing-along by this first mate.

Would I do it again?  Yes for the bikepacking, trains etc, camping with the caveat of being in warmer climes and a mattress that doesn’t deflate in the night.

Last but not least – here’s the star of the show – ie my Brompton. Not particularly liking the field tracks or cobbles but managed the weight of all the stuff and the miles, and responded like a thoroughbred to the city.  The genuine face of delight on the rider trying it out for the first time says it all  🤣 🚴‍.

Posted by admin in Cities-Towns, Equipment, France, Musings, Places

Last Stop Cologne

My third stay in Cologne was this time at the Campingplatz Stadt Koln, about 5k from the city centre, in a beautiful setting right on the Rhine river.  The only downside was the constant background noise from the bridge adjacent carrying motorway traffic, but this was a minor niggle compared to everything else. I could cycle upto the bridge and along its pedestrian/cycle ways and then along the river – in fact both banks – and in 15 minutes be at my son and partner’s new apartment. This is in a lovely part of the city called Sudstadt – lots of green space, cafes, restaurants, and 5 minutes to the river bank.

In addition to actually cleaning the windows as my main contribution to their settling in, I enjoyed a bike visit to the ‘Rodenkirchen Riviera’, just 10 minutes away south of the bridge.

The green spaces, trees and waterways of the cities I have visited this time have been really well maintained and used by so many of all ages, presumably given apartment living but also so important for helping with living in the rising heat of climate change. I think 40deg is forecast for Cologne today and many of the apartment buildings are old and not adaptable for this. The parks are full of families late afternoon and into the evenings, and in most cases people are respectful of each other and friendly, and, while not having stayed in deprived areas with the problems potentially arising from poverty, I have felt safe everywhere.

The afternoon/early evening ferry crossing from the Hook of Holland to Harwich with Stena Line was a first, and I really recommend this service as well as hiring a cabin to be able to have a decent rest. The drive back  though was not one of my best due to warning lights and messages from the van, and in the UK A1 closures and diversions. Thankfully back home, before moving to unpack the van, get it and the e-bike to some servicing, tame the garden and start seeing my family and friends again, my roundup of these last 7 weeks can be no other than:

What a fantastic trip
What fantastic health I’ve enjoyed
What a fantastic van
What fantastic companions along the way
What friendly people I’ve spent abit of time with in conversation
What fantastic weather
What fantastic bikes
What fantastic food I’ve eaten
What beautiful land, and cityscapes I’ve had the privilege to see and ‘be in’
And what a fantastic home life of family and friends to leap from and come back to each time.  I think that’s it!

Posted by admin in Germany, Musings, Places

Impressions of a 2nd First Mate

As a follower of “Life in New Lanes” since its inception, it was an honour and privilege to be invited to join in along these particular lanes in Italy for a week of cycling, walking, swimming, train / station hopping, and the opportunity to visit a long held “tick-box item”. My time as second 1st Mate covered 4 nights in Cinque Terre, 2 nights near Lucca and 1 night in “Fair Verona”.

Whilst I had been to Rome before, this was my first visit to Italy and my first extended period on a campervan trip, though I have played the role of 1st Mate over a weekend in the UK before. The journey from Verona to Modena traversed flat plains at a steady pace, with the barriers on the toll points standing upright to attention in recognition of one of the multitude of technical devices and set ups that J has installed in her van, (unsurprisingly to those of us who know her), which meant that tolls were all taken automatically with us barely coming to a halt as we went through them.

We eventually turned into the hills between the plains and the Mediterranean sea and began to marvel at the scenery, tunnels, bridges and hillside villages that filled our vision. The sea, however seemed ever elusive, until finally crossing yet another viaduct, it was suddenly there below us – we had arrived at Levanto. A master of her craft as “Captain”, the choice of location, just outside the National Park would prove to be inspired as it was a lovely setting, but less crowded with the “marauding masses” from the cruise ships and other tour groups than the main Cinque Terre villages. The days here were spent in a combination of: cycling to a local bay along an old railway line, through old galleries with views of the vibrant blue and white water of the waves crashing against the rocky shoreline; an afternoon swimming in a protected area on the beach at Framura at the end of the cycleway; walking parts of the Cinque Terra route, hopping on and off trains as necessary – marvelling at the tunnel work along the way – and taking in the pretty villages perched on hilltops, or spanning small coves and bays; folded rock formations; spring flowers, and dry stone walls; and finally a foray into La Spezia preceding a return trip by ferry to view the shoreline villages from the sea.

1st Mate accommodation was provided by Decathlon’s 2-person ‘2-second’ blackout tent. The addition of the blow-up mattress provided a very comfortable bed space. Personally, not being troubled with needing darkness to sleep, I found the blackness of the interior a little oppressive, but can see its advantages when pitched under campsite lights if you do need darkness to sleep well. It certainly seemed to do a pretty good job of keeping out the worst of the day’s heat.

A highlight for me was the stop-off in Pisa to see the Leaning Tower with my own eyes – the tick-box moment. It did not disappoint! In fact quite the opposite – it was so much more impressive in its setting and in reality than any pictures have ever conveyed to me. We stayed in a second campsite near Lucca (I will leave all assessments of campsites to the more experienced than I!). A cycleway alongside a river took us into a morning strolling around the streets of Lucca with a variety of facades of buildings to be admired.

Finally, “to fair Verona, where we lay our scene…” , actually not for Romeo and Juliet, but for the opening night of Verdi’s Nabucco staged in the extraordinary setting of the 30CE Roman Amphitheatre. My first ever opera, in a truly awesome setting as the day turned to night and we perched on ancient stone seats used by the audience of a different type of entertainment in the distant past. Verona itself is a city that invites a second visit, each corner and square seeming to enthral with romantic balconies, stunning architecture and tantalising unvisited buildings in the surrounding hills … I feel a city break coming on!

It was a fabulous experience of sharing in living “Life in New Lanes”. These New Lanes were life affirming, inspiring awe and wonder at the marvel of ‘worked’ stone, whether by man or nature, and, at their verges were the delights of delicious gelatos and Italian cuisine. These lanes lead to an attitude of gratitude for such privileges and opportunities.

Posted by admin in Italy, Musings, Places

The Netherlands, & my travel, infrastructure

Heading on the way back to Rotterdam we met up with my eldest son and his German partner as they came across from Cologne. We stayed for one night in a BnB in the city of Eindhoven, Netherlands, which was a social enterprise within a large campus-type setting providing services and housing for people of all ages who are neuro-divergent or with mental health disabilities.

We spent the next day’s few hours together in a really amazing outdoor ‘Play Park’ for primary and younger children https://www.speelparkdesplinter.nl/english/. As long as the toddler is happy and the weather is pleasant, so are the adults! What a fantastic facility mainly run by volunteers with adults paying 1.50eu to get in. This trip’s travels with a toddler have worked once again.

The Netherlands is so impressive for taking advantage of its natural resources like flat landscapes and investing in the creation of life-friendly green and relaxing environments in its towns and cities, integrating pedestrians, cyclists, canals/waterways, parkland, roads, trams, cars etc. The car seems to be equal rather than king.

Imho, this provision is matched by the new piece of kit I wildly splashed out on this year. Although completely unlike the average dutch bike, my non-electric Brompton fits under the bed in the van alongside my other trusty steed and while I have done some longer bike rides to get used to its combination of hub and derailleur gears, it comes into its own as a quick get-about bike. It will also do for any guests and I am expecting some. I’m trying to get the folding and unfolding more efficient and get the right stuff-carrying equipment eventually. Further cycling kit in the shape of a child bike-seat has also been added to get the next generation used to bikes as soon as possible, but was one item too many to bring along for its potential 2 days of use.

Following last year’s van leisure battery problems, I have had a new one fitted, and am relieved to report that the van solar panel is keeping that topped up. This also means the fan installed last year is not causing electrical problems. Additional power can be supplied by the portable ‘Jackery’ battery and inverter, topped up by the van engine on the go or its 2 portable solar panels.  The LPG, topped up in the UK with the usual expected hassles!, is running the fridge. I’m definitely not an advert for filling up an LPG tank, yet it is fantastically good value and lasts for ages, so ultimately worth the ongoing infrequent pain of topping up. My goal of trying to avoid paying electricity charges is more achievable.

I was able to watch the FA cup via BBC Iplayer on my laptop. This was achieved via the tech which is not always successful, as it depends on a wifi or my phone mobile hotspot internet connection plus running a ‘VPN’ (virtual private network) enabling my location to be seen by the BBC etc as a UK one. 

The match was more than a week ago now, but the changed and problematic editing ‘infrastructure’ for this blog has taken me this long to find a solution for. I might well have given up with it all had it not been for the fact of paying for another 3 years of hosting the site at not insignificant cost! It does while away many of the solitary (not unhappy) hours I have, and keeps the grey cells for technology firing, but I need to keep up with recording and curating the content which is accumulating due to my many short-stop visits and do other things when not exploring like reading, rather than trouble-shooting technology. Plus ca change. I will also at some point within the next 3 years have to seriously address how to safeguard all my content for the long-term. That’s a challenge for digital journals, rather than paper.

Posted by admin in Equipment, Musings, Netherlands, Places