The Good

New entry at No 1?

For the aire – thanks to the city – its location in the university area within 3/4 mile of the city beaches via well-planned cycle lanes, the peace and quiet at night, the beautiful buildings and layout of its compact centre, the fantastic cycle lanes, the beautiful bay, sand, sea and surrounding green hills, the tapas or pintxos culture, and the conversations/time spent with fellow travellers – yes it’s my, in the end 3 night stay, at SAN SEBASTIAN.

I decided to visit here based on numerous recommendations, and stay at the city aire, despite a weather forecast of solid rain for a day – sacre bleu – the first for me in about 6 weeks. The first night the charge was 3.30, but for the next two it went up to the Summer parking charge of 7.60 per night.

After about a 190-mile drive from the Picos, managed to get the 2nd to last of the 30 or so places, and on this first evening, it poured down from about 6pm, all through the night and the next morning until about 3pm, when as forecast, the sun managed to re-assert itself.

Unfortunately I observed my transformation into a southern europe wuss – no longer able to contemplate going outside in such rain and chill, and even when the sun came out, I had to force myself to put jeans on, and various layers, get the bike off the rack and make an effort for the city, given it’s motorhome provision, the choice I’d made to come here, and the fuel expenditure in doing so.

But fortune favours the brave ….. and obviously not being one of those “les anglais se cachent!” (the view of a French motorhomer – more of that in https://lifeinnewlanes.com/?p=796 ), as a result of this courageous sortie, I found a companion to meet up with in the evening to go and try the pintxos, rather than spending the time (me cachant ? 🙂 ) as usual in my apartment. This companion was a Dutchman who happened to take the same otherwise more or less empty funicular ride to the viewpoint at Mont Igeldo, who, after having the usual sort of conversation as to what are you doing here etc, suggested that we meet up and go to the old town area in the evening together as he’d also spent the previous one holed up in his airbnb due to the rain.

Marcel from Enschede is a consultant for integrated city mobility/transport projects, – see www.empowerproject.eu – and had been attending a workshop in S Sebastian. It was great to have company, and actually ‘go out’ (gasp) for the evening, and find out about his work as I am interested in cycling provision and how integrated transport-wise continental cities seem to be in comparison with ours. But beyond this conversation, in for a penny in for a pound, I decided to try some gastronomy, which I had managed to avoid more or less totally up to that point, despite already having concluded that this was something of a shame, and not helped by my solo travelling. So Octopus, Crab, Bacalao, (ie Cod), Sardine, with only the last not being ‘acceptable’ to my uneducated philistine taste buds 🙂

Because of Marcel’s invitation, I also saw more of the city centre, which I may well have amazingly avoided, and with this and the sun reappearing the next morning, decided to stay for a third night. Really enjoyed cycling all round the different areas – photos speak for themselves – and having longish conversations in French with my neighbours, Yves and Michel from Lyon, who have invited me to contact them for an evening out, if ever I’m passing through their city. So cheers Marcel.

Lots of young people, surfer dude vibe, all nationalities – and made me think about the Summer that one of my youngest son’s best friends would have spent working here last year.

Strongly recommend.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Cities-Towns, Meetings - the non-work sort, Places, Spain, The Good

Favourite Fixtures & Fittings

A placeholder for valuing explicitly in nor particular order my :

Lagun table mount, attached to this teak table top – perhaps on balance abit too heavy for this purpose, but very nice pieces of wood, and fitted by my good self. Love the mount’s design – swivelability, removeability, dismountability (getting silly now with words but gives me a simple chuckle), which I did for fridge repair, and hence versatility:

Using this alternative table location means that I can have my ‘living room sofa’ using the rear driver’s side single bed position for this seat, enabling good gazing through the side sliding door opening, so don’t need to swivel the passenger seat round unless I have company, or want to watch something on my tablet, which I need to keep plugged into the 12-volt socket above. I can also use the seat underneath the normal place for the table as a storage area when in residence and don’t have four people staying or travelling.

Aeropress coffee maker

Butter (soap) dish which closes and has rubber feet , so stays put

Family photos done via the Mixtiles app – moveable and non-marking

Solar panel – been keeping the same battery topped up since the van was acquired back in 2014, running the minimum electricity demand – primarly LED lights, TV when necessary via 12 volt, and keeping the tech charged, also by 12 volt

Route finding & navigation – can be love/hate – but use the Mercedes SatNav, in conjunction with Google maps, as well as the good old trusty paper versions which I love; but google maps on the phone is invaluable when exploring – A-Zs are a poor alternative for this purpose

Site/Overnight Location Finding – use fantastic peer platform Park4Night app, together with CamperStop, and the ACSI Camping scheme

Trusty Steed – fantastic to use the bike to go further afield, and cover more exploring ground; decided to take my mountain bike, fitting it with a rack, and more hybrid tyres, given its gears, more upright position etc; right choice and have really enjoyed riding in the warm sun and beautiful settings

At last – more than 3 months of travel, and several times feeling like a recliner would be a good thing to have along – am now proud owner of a Lafuma recliner

Previous one lasted several years, and really taken for granted as somewhat of a gimmick; however it’s fair to say that when it would work no more, its indispensability became apparent, and a new updated version was acquired

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Equipment, The Good, Van

Lessons Learned? – into the Picos de Europa via N621 to Camping La Viorna at Potes

This time, I looked at my maps more carefully and selected what looked like the best route, to get round Leon and then onto Potes, using the N625, and then the N621. Following a river – check, main road – check. Not the Pyrenees or Alps – check. Off we go. What a glorious drive and unsuspecting ascent to arrive at

I have to confess to not really looking in detail via Google maps to relief and altitude, so the descent was once again for me gripping the steering wheel, hogging the wrong side of the road, and going very slowly – all of which I was thankfully able to do as the road was good, wide and more importantly empty. The ascent from Potes is the main Picos one in the Vuelta – for those not in the cycling know, the Spanish equivalent of the Tour …….

All in all, it was a long, hot drive yet again, and I was very glad to arrive at this campsite I have wanted to stay at for several years now. I got my pitch with lovely views out of the side door, and nice neighbours, but this morning being Sunday when the Spanish weekenders vacate, meant that pitches previously occupied or not discovered by myself yesterday became available. I was very proud to move and snaffle this pitch with mountain views.

Did my 10000 steps walking down to Potes and around today – slightly cooler but still so great to just put on shorts and tee-shirt and set off. This afternoon has been sitting gazing at the view and reading, including a laugh out loud, very funny postscript to this ‘ourtour‘ post for those interested in motorhome toilet cassette emptying – https://ourtour.co.uk/home/becalmed-in-a-top-notch-motorhome-aire-at-neufchatel-en-bray-normandy/

Temperature getting cooler for next 2 – 3 days. There is the Gorge Walk of Caras, the cable car ride at Fuente De, and walking from here …… .

Picos – in my favourites, and campsite is great also.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Spain, The Good
Throw them wide – Douro Vineyard Stay

Throw them wide – Douro Vineyard Stay

Due to the temperature forecast moving into the 30s, I had wavered in my plan to do the unusual (for me) and go and stay at the Park4Night recommended vineyard only a few miles up in the hills from Regua, versus driving north into Spain to my target destination of Lago de Sanabria.

But threw caution to the wind yesterday and drove up to 600 metres above sea level, up the windy, twisty, but at least hill-hugging right side of the road. Driving alongside the river and up into the hills, before it got too high of course, in the morning sun was joyous. The vineyard’s field where we can stay for free – beautiful and peaceful. The wine-tasting session with Jose, one of the owners of the vineyard, Quinta de Padrela, was so interesting, tasting the wine, olive oil, and a partner company’s cheese made from a mix of cow, goat and sheep milk, learning about the vineyard, area and production process, and all in the company of other ‘guests’ from Germany, Canada, and a couple John and Donna, (John born in Harrogate), spending 2 years intending to travel east ultimately along the Silk road all the way to China, in their converted army Landrover – see dedicated post.

Conversation was enjoyable, strayed towards politics and some national characteristics – not british ones thankfully. We managed to deftly steer away from Brexit, and even Trump as a common theme with our Canadian group members, towards what we all agreed was the more interesting topic and caused alot of laughter – the wine effect also no doubt: the pronunciation challenge offered to Jose by the words ‘sheep cheese’ which he initially described as ‘cheese from sheeps’ in an effort to not convey that the cheese was … – you try saying it! Our German companions’ English, and Jose’s, was of course good enough for the tour to be given, all understood and contributed to, in English.

Some interesting facts for me to remember and these items on the tray are part of this week’s staving off dementia exercise: this area experiences temperatures from 0 in winter with snow just above here to up to 40 degrees in Summer; average-sized vineyard, with one side being 30 years old roughly, and the ‘old’ one 70 years old; don’t irrigate the vineyard as no need to, and only allowed as part of a licence to plant out a new vineyard; produce blended wines, mostly red, some white and rose; sell all over the world via distributors; harvest literally by hand by people from the area, primarily over the age of 50, as the ‘young’ as Jose calls people upto this age!! , and he’s one of them, are too lazy :); mature the red wine in French oak barrels, rather than those eg from US, as impart different tastes: a barrel costs about 1000eu and is used for 3 seasons; corks used in bottles to contribute to maturing process; 2 years ago lost over 50% of production due to bad weather in Spring, and last year I think it was 30%; very regulated to keep the quality up; portuguese television tends not to dub the English, in favour of sub-titles, hence their proficiency.

So glad I came here – have lovely shady spot – not too hot in the end thanks to the breeze and no doubt altitude, and the night was cool. Woke up this morning to the vista from my apartment (bijou) window, did a cycle ride through surrounding vineyards – yes uphill couldn’t be avoided – took in a coffee at the lovely town of Tabuaco, and now back for the afternoon and evening, sitting in the sun/shade, reading, writing and arithmetic loading costs into spreadsheet :), planning the next part of the route across Spain and into and across France, eating the cherries and oranges bought from a road side seller, and will slice off some of that cheese from sheeps …..

and tho’ on my own, still the song reflects it all perfectly.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Portugal, The Good

Forwards or Backwards facing – Douro Valley train journey

As I contemplated today’s activity, I realised that I was actually sitting outside the van watching the sun go down around 9pm, comfortably still in tee-shirt and shorts for the first time I think since last September, and how pleasant that was. It tops a day which demands the most lyrical of waxing, extreme gushing and definitely makes it into the Good category. I took the 1hr 40min Douro Valley train journey from Regua to Pocinho for the sum of 13eu return, and this journey can be taken from Porto, and onboard a historic train from June.

The river, surrounding vineyards, relative emptiness, all of course enhanced for me by clear blue sky and hot sun softened by breezy shade, and the fact that this is still well before high season – no crowds, no booking, no hustling. The photos will do the waxing, but just before them – the train was very comfortable, not the sardine packing I’ve come to expect from the UK’s rail service, and amazingly …..

Direction of travel? no problem.

All of the vineyards had their ‘brand’ names including Sandeman, Cockburn, Taylors. It was very like the Moselle valley, or the steep hills/mountains around the Italian lakes. Would be great to have a cycle route also – the only thing missing.

Posted by admin in Portugal, The Good

Vila Nova de Milfontes

Wanted to come here en route to have a look and walk around – have to mark this one as one of the best. The photos say it all:

Only around 20 degrees, windy but very pleasant in the full sunshine. Does get very busy apparently between mid July to mid August. Prefer this or Cabanas, to the more ‘full-on’ Algarve or French mediterranean coast.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Portugal, The Good