Portugal

Throw them wide – Douro Vineyard Stay

Throw them wide – Douro Vineyard Stay

Due to the temperature forecast moving into the 30s, I had wavered in my plan to do the unusual (for me) and go and stay at the Park4Night recommended vineyard only a few miles up in the hills from Regua, versus driving north into Spain to my target destination of Lago de Sanabria.

But threw caution to the wind yesterday and drove up to 600 metres above sea level, up the windy, twisty, but at least hill-hugging right side of the road. Driving alongside the river and up into the hills, before it got too high of course, in the morning sun was joyous. The vineyard’s field where we can stay for free – beautiful and peaceful. The wine-tasting session with Jose, one of the owners of the vineyard, Quinta de Padrela, was so interesting, tasting the wine, olive oil, and a partner company’s cheese made from a mix of cow, goat and sheep milk, learning about the vineyard, area and production process, and all in the company of other ‘guests’ from Germany, Canada, and a couple John and Donna, (John born in Harrogate), spending 2 years intending to travel east ultimately along the Silk road all the way to China, in their converted army Landrover – see dedicated post.

Conversation was enjoyable, strayed towards politics and some national characteristics – not british ones thankfully. We managed to deftly steer away from Brexit, and even Trump as a common theme with our Canadian group members, towards what we all agreed was the more interesting topic and caused alot of laughter – the wine effect also no doubt: the pronunciation challenge offered to Jose by the words ‘sheep cheese’ which he initially described as ‘cheese from sheeps’ in an effort to not convey that the cheese was … – you try saying it! Our German companions’ English, and Jose’s, was of course good enough for the tour to be given, all understood and contributed to, in English.

Some interesting facts for me to remember and these items on the tray are part of this week’s staving off dementia exercise: this area experiences temperatures from 0 in winter with snow just above here to up to 40 degrees in Summer; average-sized vineyard, with one side being 30 years old roughly, and the ‘old’ one 70 years old; don’t irrigate the vineyard as no need to, and only allowed as part of a licence to plant out a new vineyard; produce blended wines, mostly red, some white and rose; sell all over the world via distributors; harvest literally by hand by people from the area, primarily over the age of 50, as the ‘young’ as Jose calls people upto this age!! , and he’s one of them, are too lazy :); mature the red wine in French oak barrels, rather than those eg from US, as impart different tastes: a barrel costs about 1000eu and is used for 3 seasons; corks used in bottles to contribute to maturing process; 2 years ago lost over 50% of production due to bad weather in Spring, and last year I think it was 30%; very regulated to keep the quality up; portuguese television tends not to dub the English, in favour of sub-titles, hence their proficiency.

So glad I came here – have lovely shady spot – not too hot in the end thanks to the breeze and no doubt altitude, and the night was cool. Woke up this morning to the vista from my apartment (bijou) window, did a cycle ride through surrounding vineyards – yes uphill couldn’t be avoided – took in a coffee at the lovely town of Tabuaco, and now back for the afternoon and evening, sitting in the sun/shade, reading, writing and arithmetic loading costs into spreadsheet :), planning the next part of the route across Spain and into and across France, eating the cherries and oranges bought from a road side seller, and will slice off some of that cheese from sheeps …..

and tho’ on my own, still the song reflects it all perfectly.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Portugal, The Good

Forwards or Backwards facing – Douro Valley train journey

As I contemplated today’s activity, I realised that I was actually sitting outside the van watching the sun go down around 9pm, comfortably still in tee-shirt and shorts for the first time I think since last September, and how pleasant that was. It tops a day which demands the most lyrical of waxing, extreme gushing and definitely makes it into the Good category. I took the 1hr 40min Douro Valley train journey from Regua to Pocinho for the sum of 13eu return, and this journey can be taken from Porto, and onboard a historic train from June.

The river, surrounding vineyards, relative emptiness, all of course enhanced for me by clear blue sky and hot sun softened by breezy shade, and the fact that this is still well before high season – no crowds, no booking, no hustling. The photos will do the waxing, but just before them – the train was very comfortable, not the sardine packing I’ve come to expect from the UK’s rail service, and amazingly …..

Direction of travel? no problem.

All of the vineyards had their ‘brand’ names including Sandeman, Cockburn, Taylors. It was very like the Moselle valley, or the steep hills/mountains around the Italian lakes. Would be great to have a cycle route also – the only thing missing.

Posted by admin in Portugal, The Good

Douro Valley N222 to Aire at Peso da Regua

Had a four-hour leisurely drive on the road N222, which I had read was one of Portugal’s great drives, for many miles from Porto up the Douro river valley. The road was perfectly fine, pretty empty, and the scenery was indeed stunning, so I recommend it. 28 degrees now, so rather hot. Had to swap summer pj’s for winter ones last night given that the menopausal guest had vacated, but it’s definitely back to the summer ones tonight.

The aire is fantastic – even toilets here, as part of this river leisure area. Considering train trip, cycle ride on converted track Linho do Sabor further up the valley, and move to a vineyard, before heading back to Spain.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Portugal

Porto & Camping Canidelo, via quick stop at Nazare

After 3 nights around Lisbon, drove up the coast stopping to look at the sweeping beaches and the massive surf location of Nazare, before spending 4 nights at the above camping to spend some time in Porto. And now Porto is up there with Ronda and Cordoba.

Got bus from just outside campsite, altho could cycle as only about 5km from centre. On day 1, took a little road train tour, then proceeded to retrace the complete route on foot! Day 2, the ‘6 bridges’ boat trip, and exploring the river bank Ribeira area. Charming city and this photo selection doesn’t really do it justice.

Worthy of an additional photo gallery though for posterity – the ‘to a British person used to the risk aversion inducing health and safety culture’, amazing sharing of one of the main bridge crossings between pedestrians and/or cyclists, and the TRAM!!! not to mention the ease with which I could have chucked myself (or my sister) off.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Portugal

Sintra, Lisbon, Cascais

Stayed at a lovely resort west of Lisbon, Cascais, well-served by buses and trains, enabling us to get to Sintra and Lisbon from just outside the Cascais Orbitur campsite entrance.

Loved both Sintra and Lisbon. Photos say it all.

A snapshot of magical Sintra where we did the recommended climb, and it is indeed a climb!, through the gardens of the Villa Sassetti to the palace.  Needs another visit to see more.

Got the bus, then train from Cascais to Lisbon; took one of the iconic old trams around some of the old city centre streets. Again, a lovely city; the first two photos are of Cascais:

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Cities-Towns, Places, Portugal

To Setubal via Lisbon Airport

I was excited and looking forward to receiving the first official guest of my career break year, albeit the same person who accompanied me in getting out to Spain as part of my 18-19 annual leave and so therefore at that time not quite career break companionship material. I had determined from Park4Night primarily that the best place to park would be P3 official car park at the airport, and best to book in advance online, which I duly did. In driving primarily on non-busy roads for the last few weeks, it was abit of a jolt to find myself driving through the chaos of the approach roads to Lisbon Airport, around various spaghetti junctions, on red alert as I negotiated the traffic and managed to arrive amazingly at P3 at 12:20, when my booking was for 12:15 for 3 hours. In the end, whereas the driving had not thwarted me, getting the car park exit barriers to honour my pre-paid parking was beyond my guest and I, so we duly paid a 2nd time for the privilege of being 2 mins away from the arrivals terminal. Decision made to head for the Parque Natural da Arrabida, past the town of Setubal, south of Lisbon, to stay there for one night to visit some more beautiful coastline before basing ourselves at Cascais, north west of Lisbon for our visits to the capital and Sintra.

The beaches and coastline of this area are indeed beautiful, well worth visiting and we stayed at a really nice, recommended good value small campsite just beyond Setubal – Ecoparque do Outao.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Portugal