Places

Honfleur – and then ferry

For my last full day and night of the Western Odyssey I drove the few miles across Normandy countryside to where the Seine flows into the sea between the town of Honfleur and my sailing port of Le Havre. I stayed at the very nice 2-star Camping du Phare, for an extremely reasonable cost without electricity, given it’s location at this beautiful little town on the tourist trail. There’s loads more to visit around this area, just over the Channel, beaches as well as the other towns and villages, and well worth a return trip.

Le Havre was destroyed in WWII and rebuilt in this style:

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Cities-Towns, France, Places

War Grave

The grave of my Mum’s first cousin, Captain Arthur Deakin Eteson

I visited the WWII cemetery at Hottot-Les-Bagues to look for the grave of Captain Arthur Deakin Eteson, only son of my Mum’s aunt and uncle, who died in the Normandy landings aged 27. In looking for his grave, (before realising there is an index in each cemetery) I found myself saying thank you across each row of graves. All nationalities were represented, but most seemed to be under 25, and as young as 18. The cemetery was beautifully maintained, as are they all, and places for reflection. What tragedy – no computer game!

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Musings, Places

WWII and the EU

I drove to Caen WWII Memorial Centre and spent 3 hours dedicated to reminding myself about this momentous and horrendous time period in not just Europe but the world’s 20th century history.

In continuing to my overnight stop at the village of Asnelles – the D-Day landing site ‘Gold Beach’, it was obvious how much this area of France commemorates with respect what happened in June 1944. Streets in Asnelles are named after British regiments – eg, Rue du Devonshire Regiment – there are plaques and streetlight banners highlighting armed forces individuals who fought in the Battle of Normandy. And up and down the beaches are wartime defenses, and equipment just left there as a very vivid reminder of what happened then.

I decided to watch the film ‘Saving Private Ryan’, which I really feel should be compulsory viewing in schools for all 16 year olds, as well as films such as Schindler’s List, as the still living participants and witnesses of it all become ever fewer. We should make all efforts to not forget the horror which was unleashed as a result of evil philosophy on behalf of leaders who in Germany, Italy and others were able to seize power, and then distort almost completely the moral framework of their citizens. The fact that such ideologies continue to flourish and have since then managed to escape Pandora’s box, and wreak similar evil in our lifetimes, means we must not take for granted the relative freedoms and prosperities we have enjoyed in our liberal democracies.

In conversation with others, the fear of the rise of populism and nationalism in its worst forms throughout Europe was a repeated theme.

As I set off this morning and stopped briefly on the cliff tops at Arromanches, I thought about the EU, and how I want to celebrate the force for good that I, in my simple perception and knowledge, feel it to have been through its evolution since the second world war. In reflecting on how difficult it is for the opposing sides in Northern Ireland to overcome the wounds and legacies of that historical conflict, imagine the gulf, the bitterness, and the need for revenge and retribution, amongst and within the nations of Europe arising from WWII, coming also after WWI. In the span of one person’s lifetime, I am proud that these nations’ representatives have worked so hard together within this structure and its previous incarnations, I feel, to establish an order which indeed has restrained enmity and sought to enable its peoples to flourish from out of the devastation of that war.

Perhaps one will say that indeed it served this purpose in the 20th century, but now it needs reform and is no longer right for the world as it is now, and Great Britain’s place within it. My view remains that all things considered, the EU is still a force for peace, for prosperity, for flourishing of its peoples, and yes for ‘good’ , which the United Kingdom is leaving for an empty slogan of ‘taking back sovereignty’, and a misplaced confidence in a Britain of its empire of the past. To face the challenges of now – strong-man politics, the rise of populism and nationalism, globalisation with potentially rampant corporations in reality stronger than nations, climate change, we need to be part of that bigger community, to be able to stand together as a block to defend and continue to develop the values of freedom, human rights and social democracy, which have been so hard won .

In conversation with others, whether Dutch, German, or French, sadness at the departure of the United Kingdom from the EU was a repeated theme.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Cities-Towns, France, Musings

Against the clock now – Mont St Michel, Normandy Beaches, Honfleur

Booked the ferry from Le Havre to return to the UK Fri 6 July, and planned the route from Perros-Guirec via Mont Saint Michel, Caen and the Normandy beaches and then Honfleur town visit. Apart from passing through, this is my first visit to Normandy.

The weather continues to be perfect for driving, stopping somewhere overnight, and walking/cycling to explore.

Mont Saint Michel was very impressive, although I decided that a visit to the inside of the Abbaye would wait for another time. The surrounding countryside is peaceful, and seems ‘gentle’. Don’t know whether this will change once the full Summer holidays start. Stayed on a camping car private aire called La Bidonniere about 2.5 miles from the start of the causeway and can see the Abbaye through my van side door.

This morning I woke up quite early and had just the sound of birds, gentle breeze and the faint echoes of successive village bells chiming 7am, from across the flat plains. Perfect.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places

Cote de Granit Rose – trip down memory lane

Have very fond memories of one or two holidays taken with extended family when the next generation were children – did that actually happen! – in this part of northern Brittany, when the weather didn’t perform like british Cornwall. I wanted to see whether it was still as beautiful as I remembered.

So Perros-Guirec and Tregastel – you are. I love the rocks and boulder formations, along the coastline and in the villages, the coves, inlets and beaches of the crystal clear sea. Recollect being in the water amongst the rocks when the tide came in very fast, and it’s one of the many places we’ve been fortunate to enjoy with our family which would have been paradise for me as a child. As an empty-nester – what could be better – fantastic for walking, cycling, kayaking, exploring the coastline – assuming sunshine, and not drizzle or sea mist which also happens.

For those who know Brimham Rocks in North Yorkshire, UK, then it’s like that up and down the coast of pink granite, and the houses, street pavings, flower planters, etc are built from it. Unfortunately just a one-night stop here this time as part of the 5-day road trip from Benodet back to the ferry port at Le Havre, and the weather did its job – clear skies, low twenties.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places

Bounty Hunters – along to Benodet

I love a good beach and go out of my way to see them, even if I don’t lie on one, or go in the water. Reminds me of the advert for the Bounty chocolate bar from my youth, where “they went in search of paradise”.

My journey to Benodet went via the Bay of La Baule, on the Loire-Atlantique coast past St Nazare, which I’d read on a French website was reputed to be one of the most beautiful in the world. This time I even went in the water at Pornichet, but didn’t linger when I saw a jelly-fish.

This is the coast at Pornic, and then the Bay of La Baule:

Landed at Camping du Trev which is like the wooded garden of a large country house, but just 200m from the main beach at Benodet. And NO HEATWAVE. A respectable temperature of around 25 – 28, whereas Courry in the Gard (southeast France) was 42 degrees yesterday!

This area is really lovely.

Took the little ferry across the river Odet over to Sainte Marine, and cycled along the coast to Ile Tudy, then back across and just around the headland to view the ‘Letty’ beach which had been recommended by a colleague:

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places