Places

18
Jun
2025

The Cinque Terra & 1.5 days in Tuscany

1st mate no 2 and I headed off on the 200 miles or so motorway journey to Levanto on the mediterranean coast between Genoa and La Spezia, just outside the CT national park for the first 4 nights of this stay. My guest has contributed her own account which, as it is positive :), and summarises the week’s happenings really well, I have added as a separate post.

Our campsites, Pian di Picche, at Levanto, and Agricampeggio LaValle outside Lucca, were good finds and it was good to have pre-booked them all.

After our cycle to swim in the sea on the 1st day, we bought a 2-day train ticket to be able to hop on/off at the 5 villages, and also La Spezia.  We did one walk in the heat between Corniglia and Vernazza. The paths are along the very beautiful coastline with steep ups and downs particularly into and out of the villages. I’d had enough after this first stretch of walking and navigating the increasing crowds, so was happy to be able to hop on the train and return to Levanto. The trains running every 30 mins provide a great escape when necessary.

My guest, being used to getting up very early, chose to do a second day’s walking catching the 7:05 train, where I opted for my usual lazier start, taking the bike on the train for a visit to La Spezia. I thought this was a lovely place to visit, was amazed at the size of the cruise

ships in the harbour, and spent a good 2 hours sitting and reading at various parts of the sea-front/harbour/marina.

Our next stop was 2 nights at Lucca, so we were able to have a couple of hours visit in the very hot sun to Pisa, parking in a supermarket car park and cycling into the old town.  Despite the images of this being so well known, the beauty of the tower, other buildings and setting were more striking in real life.

As for Lucca, this was a town I had really wanted to visit and it didn’t disappoint. Certainly less crowds, so no competition for cafe spots. The city walls are a wide continuous boulevard and after exploring the narrow streeets and lovely squares we were able to cycle all the way round the old town and then back along the river to the campsite.

The pool was a luxury to come back to after the heat reaching mid 30s.

 

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Italy, Places
15
Jun
2025

Week 2 Lake Garda

Sommacampagna, a small town 30k or so from Cisano Lake Garda and 6k from Verona airport, was a good place to spend a couple of hours having a larger supermarket and nice cafe on the central square, waiting for the midday landing of 1st mate number 1. The results of the usual research for short-term parking of high-sided vehicles at an airport proved reliable. The pickup was mostly straightforward apart from ending up mistakenly re-entering the airport complex, and incurring another ticket having paid for the first.  Their system obligingly accommodated my confusion and enabled us to exit without having to go back into the terminal to pay again. I became an old hand for the return of guest no 1 and pickup of no 2 a week later, including where to drop off without entering the complex at all.

One further night had to be spent at Cisano, as the campsite at Torbole at the head of the lake could only be booked for the following 6 nights. My guest confirmed that she had stayed with her family at this very site decades ago. On the Sunday, choosing to drive alongside the lake rather than zip up the toll motorway was a mistake, with nose to tail traffic for large parts of the route. Alot of this increased journey length resulted from a later departure caused by my failure to register my guest for the one night when she arrived.  Incurring initial significant shock and disapproval from Reception as I tried to pay for her stay at sign-out, I had to get passports etc again for a new registration so that their systems could process it. Queueing both times in the melee of people coming and going. The consequent later tired and hot arrival at the next campsite was not the best when the pitch which had been allocated to us was still occupied.  We were then offered what seemed like a last resort of a space which we rejected (happily settled into by later arrivees 🙂 and I’m at that point wishing we had stayed put in the previous campsite and contemplating driving back. We were finally given an option for what turned out to be a lovely private, but long, narrow and entrance-constrained pitch.  If it had not been for a pitch neighbour and 1st mate indicating that the van could be got onto it, I would have declined. It was indeed the hardest pitch to reverse-manoeuvre into, and then a minor compartment of my mind held the stress for the next 6 days as to whether I’d be able to get the van off it again, this time with the added pressure of a peace-disturbing departure around 8am to get friend to the airport. Pitch navigation can definitely be a problem on tighter continental campsites, as I have found to my cost in the past. In the end, and much to my relief, the forward exit was easy.

Camping Al Porto thankfully really grew on us – it would definitely have been the wrong decision to abandon. Small, and as being in a somewhat tropical garden, almost at the lakeside, and lovely facilities.  We loved the contrast of the mountainous setting of the lake to that further south.

The lakeside cycling provision to the adjacent elegant small town of Riva was great so we spent alot of time backwards and forwards.  Our week included a ferry to Malcesine, and as part of that day trip, a cable car up Monte Baldo – approx 1700m – which unfortunately was covered in cloud and nippy; a bike ride for me on part of the route Strada del Ponale to Lake Ledro, of which I only did about half  due to it being more of a mountain bike route than my trusty e-bike, in need of a service, was up for; a bike ride to the town of Arco and being caught in an absolute downpour on the way back; pizzas, pasta and gelato, relaxing at lakeside cafes for morning coffee; even got the paddleboard out again.  Due to the wind getting up in the afternoons, this area is popular with the very committed windsurf, and a new one on me, wingfoil set, so had a more energetic, younger, and definitely fitter dare I say, vibe. We were outliers.

The guest accommodation was appreciated and for the princess and the pea, the doubled over foam playmat, plus a 5cm mattress topper, and then an airbed which had surfaced after many years from under the bed in the van provided the ultimate comfort.  It also gave abit of elevation above the ants which subsequently got transferred to my bed when doing the ‘transition’ arrangements.  It is fair to say that the ‘2 seconds up tent’ does prove somewhat of a challenge at the demontage, but is nevertheless an improvement on the previous incarnation.

I loved our stay – the guest had to say she did, but I hope it was genuine.

 

 

Posted by admin in Italy
30
May
2025

Accelerate To The Sun

Looking towards the village of Garda

So here I am loving my now Day 5 stay in one place of what will be almost a 2-week stay at two small towns at Lake Garda. Due to the rain at Fussen meaning that not much could be seen, I had made the right decision to cut short the visit, avoid stopping in Innsbruck and head to the sun.

The journey from Germany took me this time through the Brenner pass which forms part of the border between Austria and Italy, and as in the past, popping out on the Italian side of the pass brought sunshine and increasing heat.  It’s an amazing 200 or so kilometres of descent on a busy motorway – lorries, motorhomes and caravans streaming south through beautiful mountains. I was very pleased to realise as I drove upto a toll gate, suddenly scrabbling to get my brain cells and payment methods together as I looked up at the same time to identify the correct route through, that my APRR French tolls tag also covers Italy, as well as France, Spain, Portugal. I had missed checking this in advance. I’ve haven’t checked yet how much the journey will have cost – I had already bought online the Austrian ‘vignette’ for 10 days which cost approx 12eu.

Childrens’ splash park

I am at Camping Cisano in between Bardolino and Lazise on the south east side of the lake which I targeted due to it having a cheaper out of season rate.  This is a massive very family-friendly campsite with tour operators including Eurocamp and lots of British families are here for half term and the swimming pools are fantastic for all ages, as now I have an eye for young children.

There are other European nationalities represented, but the huge majority everywhere are Germans. The size of the site might sound off-putting, and particularly further down the lake there’s one enormous 3 or 4-star campsite after another all looking pretty full, but the pitches here are spacious, in shade, the shower-block facilities are really good and people are very friendly.

Both sets of neighbours on adjoining pitches have been helpful and pleasant, and I was even invited for an Aperol yesterday evening by a lovely older couple from the Main valley in Germany. I had to absolutely practice my German for this, but we managed a reasonable level of conversation!  They said that the weather in their area of Germany was becoming increasingly dry and hot due to climate change, and has been more reliable than in northern Italy over the last couple of years.

What a beautiful place it is.  The temperature is getting upto around the mid 20s, and everybody cycles up and down alongside the lake to visit the different towns. I think today I will force myself to get the SUP board out, pump it up and actually sit/stand on it on the lake – about 300m or so away from my pitch. It is abit of an unwieldy weight.

 

My only previous visit was around 2015 to Malcesine, further up the lake where the landscape around is mountainous, and a re-visit particularly in the van has been on the list since then.  Tomorrow I am going to pick up friend no 1 Rachel from Verona airport for her 2nd visit to my establishment, so the previous trip obviously didn’t put her off.  After the first night at my current campsite we will be ensconced for the rest of the week at a campsite in Torbole, almost at the north head of the lake. I have upgraded the guest accommodation to a blackout tent, but still without ensuite facilities.

I was thinking I might upgrade my awning to this, which I observed in amazement at the local markets.

Posted by admin in Italy, Places
29
May
2025

Romantische Strasse – Germany

This is a well-known drive in Germany heading south from near Wurzburg to Fussen in Bavaria, the location of the fairy-tale Neuschwanstein and other castles.  Reminded of it by friends, I decided to do this route as part of the planned journey to Lake Garda in Italy.

Koblenz

After a long drive from dropping the sisters at Amsterdam airport, I stayed here for 2 nights at a campsite a few kms down the Moselle river, enjoyed my cycle into the town and the cable car ride to the fortress above at the Rhine and Moselle confluence.

Provision of beaches along the river

The Rhine is closest to the cables, the Moselle to the right of the ‘Deutches Eck’ corner

Mix of housing, and lack of security – cameras, high borders, etc in place

Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber

I came off the motorway to officially start on the Romantic Road heading for this town.  The route passed through many places with medieval centres, and rolling countryside, but my planned schedule didn’t provide for more stops. I stayed in one of the parkings the town has provided for motorhomes – some 80 places, for 15eu per night with heated and clean public toilets.

This small town of approx 12000 people is one of the most popular and highly-visited. Beautiful, intact medieval buildings, squares, and complete city walls.

Worth reading about in Wikipedia where there is a large history section, which also covers Nazi Germany and WW2. Gives pause for thought once again in these times where we seem not to have learnt from history. What happened then, not that long ago, is not unique to Germans or a certain part of the population in Rwanda, or the former Yugoslavia, or Cambodia.  It could happen anywhere, some early actions of which I believe we are seeing in the US right now, and even more so with 21st century digital tools and AI. Mafiosi/money rules leadership who will exploit people’s fears, endlessly stoke victimhood, ensure that ‘others’ are blamed and dehumanised, kidnapping off the streets without due process, contravening the law repeatedly and significant proportions of willing electorates who hand over their critical thinking and become cult followers, or take democracy for granted and don’t acknowledge the writing on the wall and fight against until it’s too late.  

Fussen

As the weather was not good the next day I continued the drive on the autoroute to this beautiful place close to the Alps, the location of the famous Schloss Neuschwanstein and HohenSchwangau and the end of the ‘strasse’.  The weather had improved slightly so I was able to have an explore round the centre, finally for about the 4th time of asking at cake shops acquire my favourite Bienenstich, and feel comfortable in the van on one of the private motorhome park sites.  

Many bike packers were evident, and I think that the Romantische Strasse would be good for a cycle tour.  As for me, I decided to visit one of the castles the following morning, and then carry on for a visit to Innsbruck, but as per the forecast it was pouring down, with low clouds in the mountains around and very little visibility. Lake Garda, meanwhile and for the price of a 5-hour drive and tolls had summer weather forecast.  No contest, I accelerated to the sunshine and blue skies.

Things I noticed in this relatively quick visit through Germany – roads great, good cycling infrastructure used by many. Whereas the Dutch go for comfort, I observed the German choice to be primarily for electric of the meaty mountain bike type.  As I drove onwards further south it seemed that most of the holiday traffic was carrying bikes.

The cost of living was very similar in the Netherlands and Germany to the UK, although we were very shocked by the barometer of the shopping basket – the price of hummus even in Lidl which was double that of the UK and my extended family staple.  

Posted by admin in Germany, Places
27
May
2025

Maastricht, Leiden, Amsterdam

The sunshine and blue sky for the first 2 weeks painted everything gloriously!

Maastricht

I spent my first 2 nights a couple of kms or so outside of Maastricht, which I chose to visit as it was within 25km of the Terhill Centerparcs. I didn’t really know what to expect, but I absolutely loved it and would recommend a visit.  This city of approx 123000 people was beautiful – on the banks of the Meuse river, with a historic cobbled centre including the university campus, lovely parks and river banks and of course amazing bike infrastructure – the Brompton was not too keen on the cobbles of which there were many, but dealt with them ok.

I took this last picture to remind me in the future of how the either-side pedestrian parts of the bridge ascended at the same time as the central part with people continuing their crossing! whilst the large boats/barges sailed on underneath.

 

 

Leiden

From Eindhoven I moved for a night to within 15 mins bike ride of Leiden’s historic city centre, the birthplace of Rembrandt and having the oldest university in the Netherlands. A similar size population-wise to Maastricht, with everything very accessible by bike of course.  I managed to get the last of 5 pitches in a little small-holding within a residential area for the price of 6 euros per night, plus optional 5eu for electricity. Perfect for a stopover. Lots of canals, and the Hortus Botanical Garden was a beautiful place in the centre.

 

What’s not to like.

 

Amsterdam

A short drive from Leiden, and having worked out where to park my high-sided vehicle for the Schipol airport pickup of my sisters, I arrived at my kind of town.

I had a pitch, they a room + bathroom (perhaps not as cheap as might be expected) for a 4-night stay in Camping Zeeburg, a few kms from the centre. Both bikes were now used every day for two visits in and around the centre, using one of the amazing inside free bikeparking provision at the central station, and then a 30-mile total bike ride out to the north and nature areas to a windmill museum. This last bike ride took us right across the main harbour entrance – using the major lock gate cycling/pedestrian ‘bridges’s for the large river cruise and cargo barges. 

The single-speed, pedal-backwards-to-brake hired bike took some getting used to by one of the party (not me), but after the 3 days she had just about got there.  No mishaps. We also did a canal boat tour which was enjoyable. 

The city centre was busy, but perhaps not too bad imo – maybe different in full Summer? We could not have had a better time, loved the central canal-based streets, marvelled again at the infrastructure.

Contrast this with the new tunnel just opened under the Thames in London, – in a city which has really gone for cycling and at least not bad for the UK – with no cycling lanes built as part of it. What lack of competence, joined-up bigger picture, or anti 15-minute town conspiracy theorist, or as usual money saving/car is the only thing in town thinking!!!  This youtube video shows an alternative approach:  https://youtu.be/JCedclz03uI?si=6Wcure8szVyhnVfQ

A comment in a vlog ‘American in Europe’ was ‘America is a business with customers, Europe is a society with people’. I feel that the American model describes the UK and the Netherlands shows part of the alternative.

Posted by admin in Equipment, Netherlands, Places
25
May
2025

The Netherlands, & my travel, infrastructure

Heading on the way back to Rotterdam we met up with my eldest son and his German partner as they came across from Cologne. We stayed for one night in a BnB in the city of Eindhoven, Netherlands, which was a social enterprise within a large campus-type setting providing services and housing for people of all ages who are neuro-divergent or with mental health disabilities.

We spent the next day’s few hours together in a really amazing outdoor ‘Play Park’ for primary and younger children https://www.speelparkdesplinter.nl/english/. As long as the toddler is happy and the weather is pleasant, so are the adults! What a fantastic facility mainly run by volunteers with adults paying 1.50eu to get in. This trip’s travels with a toddler have worked once again.

The Netherlands is so impressive for taking advantage of its natural resources like flat landscapes and investing in the creation of life-friendly green and relaxing environments in its towns and cities, integrating pedestrians, cyclists, canals/waterways, parkland, roads, trams, cars etc. The car seems to be equal rather than king.

Imho, this provision is matched by the new piece of kit I wildly splashed out on this year. Although completely unlike the average dutch bike, my non-electric Brompton fits under the bed in the van alongside my other trusty steed and while I have done some longer bike rides to get used to its combination of hub and derailleur gears, it comes into its own as a quick get-about bike. It will also do for any guests and I am expecting some. I’m trying to get the folding and unfolding more efficient and get the right stuff-carrying equipment eventually. Further cycling kit in the shape of a child bike-seat has also been added to get the next generation used to bikes as soon as possible, but was one item too many to bring along for its potential 2 days of use.

My crammed under-bed garage and other storage spaces also full this trip

Following last year’s van leisure battery problems, I have had a new one fitted, and am relieved to report that the van solar panel is keeping that topped up. This also means the fan installed last year is not causing electrical problems. Additional power can be supplied by the portable ‘Jackery’ battery and inverter, topped up by the van engine on the go or its 2 portable solar panels.  The LPG, topped up in the UK with the usual expected hassles!, is running the fridge. I’m definitely not an advert for filling up an LPG tank, yet it is fantastically good value and lasts for ages, so ultimately worth the ongoing infrequent pain of topping up. My goal of trying to avoid paying electricity charges is more achievable.

I was able to watch the FA cup via BBC Iplayer on my laptop. This was achieved via the tech which is not always successful, as it depends on a wifi or my phone mobile hotspot internet connection plus running a ‘VPN’ (virtual private network) enabling my location to be seen by the BBC etc as a UK one. 

The match was more than a week ago now, but the changed and problematic editing ‘infrastructure’ for this blog has taken me this long to find a solution for. I might well have given up with it all had it not been for the fact of paying for another 3 years of hosting the site at not insignificant cost! It does while away many of the solitary (not unhappy) hours I have, and keeps the grey cells for technology firing, but I need to keep up with recording and curating the content which is accumulating due to my many short-stop visits and do other things when not exploring like reading, rather than trouble-shooting technology. Plus ca change. I will also at some point within the next 3 years have to seriously address how to safeguard all my content for the long-term. That’s a challenge for digital journals, rather than paper.

Posted by admin in Equipment, Musings, Netherlands, Places