Places

Volcanoes – Should I stay or should I go now – followed by the Limousin

For this western odyssey, I had roughly planned to see alot of Spain, then Portugal, then back through France before returning to the UK for the high season period – ie to avoid the much more expensive, booking-needing weeks of mid July to late August particularly given that I’m targeting places that are on the holiday map – and then to depart again late August. But without any fixed plans, I was tempted by the option with obviously lots of advantages, of staying in the south of France at my Mum’s house for those weeks, or leaving the campervan in the campsite next door and flying back to the UK, to return similarly late August. What options to have!

But I decided that the other places were still calling me, and the weather forecast was looking very favourable – as the variable southern Brittany would be hot enough, and also avoid the heatwave of temperatures upto 40deg throughout most of France. So interesting, that after 3 months of travel, the original outline plan was still holding.

Therefore had a beautiful recommended drive north of the Cevennes and west from Les Vans through Villefort, then upto Puy en Velay on the D901, then 906, then N102. The ‘Val D’Allier’ looked stunning. There was even a tightroper who I spied high above a gorge, and by the time the van made it to the top on one of those roads I’m not keen on, they had either fallen to their death or made it across.

Continued to Clermont Ferrand, and then headed west into the Auvergne to Chambon-sur-Lac, to Camping Les Bombes – good reviews, which I confirm and so cheap for the place. Quick cycle ride around the area and resolved that I should push myself to use the van like a car – ie to drive to two locations around the area on route to my next planned stop to meet up with my Mum and partner at his daughter and son-in-law’s house they’re doing up in the middle of nowhere, just east of Limoges.

THE AUVERGENE IS GORGEOUS – mountains – ie extinct volcanoes above 1400, with ski resorts, so like the Pyrenees, Picos etc, loads of hiking/cycling trails, beautiful villages. I drove first to the ‘Vallee de Chaudefour’ and walked up the valley, through the alpine-like meadows to the ‘Cirque’ of mountains/volcanoes.

Beautiful meadow – wildflowers, stream, serious rock climbing going on
Up to head of valley

In the afternoon, drove via Puy de Dome, took the train upto the summit at 1450m to look down on Clermond Ferrand, and the volcanoes in this chain, before driving on another 70 miles or so on great ‘D’ roads to get to the hamlet of Mont Pigeaud near the town of Gueret . Unfortunately my photos don’t do it justice, but plenty on the internet.

Spent 2 nights parked outside the house of Nicola and Darren, just east of Limoges near the town of Gueret. Nicola is the daughter of my Mum’s partner, and so met up with them also as they were travelling down to Courry. Nicola and Darren have taken on a project with this house, not as far as re-building a ruin, but in terms of damp on a main wall, and lots of other basic maintenance, which they do in their holidays, driving down with car fully-laden, and the odd hire-van trip from Homfirth in Yorkshire. Very interesting, the challenges people take on.

The photo belies the amount of work to be, and already done by Nicola and Darren, and it is somewhat in the middle of nowhere, albeit about 20 mins drive on the usual good minor roads from Gueret.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places

It’s All Too Beautiful …

What did we do there – well , there’s the Ceze river at St Denis, our closest favourite place

there’s the Chassezac river and Mazet Plage

there’s the Cascades de Sautadet at the Roque-sur-Ceze

and not forgetting the kayaking on the Ardeche river

Worth a mention, so bunged it in here – a Tropezienne; not my favourite Mille Feuilles, but a close second, and this example was delicious, if somewhat too much; still ate it in one sitting!
Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places, The Good

French ‘Durrells’ house via brief stop at Montpellier

Time gallops on as I realise it’s almost a week now since I drove to Courry, a small village on the edge of the Cevennes and Ardeche areas, to spend time at my Mum’s house with 2 of my offspring, their other halves, and a couple of friends. I spent about 45 mins driving round the uni area of Montpellier en route, looking to find a parking spot, from which to do a brief cycle tour of the city centre. I was almost deciding that Montpellier would have to be left for another time, when I found one at last, and enjoyed a bit of exploration, resulting in the conclusion that this city did warrant another more relaxed visit.

The drive from Montpellier up to a ‘town called Ales’ immediately brought home to me as ever, how fortunate we are to be able to stay in such a beautiful region. Mum’s house is not the luxury south of France villa that I always expect people to be thinking; it’s very quirky, hence my comparison with the house on the TV series the Durrells, (highly recommended for the script, which for me got better series by series, the acting, the scenery); its charm has grown on me over the years, particularly when only needing to clear all the dead insects :), dust and debris from the ‘the outside-in’ rooms, and not being responsible for its general upkeep:

Not quite sure of it’s age, but it has served many different functions in addition to housing a village family – including a boulangerie and silk farm. In the heat of Summer, it’s really cool on the ground floor.

Here’s the matching car; get good exercise – not as far as legs running along through the floor, but for the arms, manually winding down the windows, and sauna effects in the non-air-conditioned atmosphere; informed a couple of weeks later that two wasp nests had taken residence inside the door; a true Herbie and never needs filling up

These are views from a chapel 3km away at 445m altitude from which on a clear day can be seen Mont Ventoux, the mountains of the Ardeche, and the Cevennes above 1500m:

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places, The Good

Naturists R Not Me

Decided to stay on the Med at Marseillan Plage, next to Cap d’Agde for a few days of good weather forecast on the way to staying with extended family in the Cevennes/Ardeche area.

An ‘old friend’ was staying at a more expensive! campsite nearby, so decided to surprise them by walking along the beach to where they would be no doubt immediately taking advantage of the sunshine. I had to abandon the surprise as found myself, due to worsening eyesight having to draw near to single men lying on the beach which had become naturist as my walk progressed, to determine whether their likely ‘parts’ eg hair, or naked physionomy particularly including whitish buttocks, belonged to said person. There were at least 3 such candidates.

The 2nd day’s search to meet up on the beach was also abandoned, given that it was the afternoon, very busy and full of primarily middle-aged to elderly dangly bits everywhere, which I just didn’t want to be scrutinising, to try and find the needle in a haystack, even if from behind sunglasses! 🙂 Can see the benefits of naturism, and the Cap d’Agde Naturist Village is a real centre for practising such in all aspects of life, but unlike the gastronomy which I really feel I ought to develop an interest in actually trying out, baring ones all will never be me 🙂

The beach at Marseillan Plage is great – lovely sea and plenty of non-naturist-inhabited sand for me. Loads of campsites here, very busy in the Summer months, and I’ve got a very nice pitch on a small one for 16eu per night without electricity, but direct beach access.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Musings, Places

Stowaway Released

Whilst the ski boots and clothing did not make the final essential inventory, the body board had been biding all this time, knowing the Atlantic coasts were there, but needing the opportunity of a beachside location and the warmth of the Med to finally fulfill its destiny.

After all my practice with a selfie-stick, to enable me to record my battling with the waves, including even a video proving that the body board did catch the waves with me on it, I resorted to using the tried and tested solution of an old friend holding the camera.

If reading in conjunction with the previous post, those in the know will realise that the only friend of mine who, to my knowledge, enjoys sunbathing in the altogether is ones ex-husband, who is able to combine enjoyment of campervanning, France – at least the warm bits, and surprising the family for Father’s Day.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, The Good

Beautiful drive – D11 Pyrenees towards Med & LPG Success

Had a lovely drive today, through the countryside between the Pyrenees to Toulouse and heading for Agde and Montpellier. Particularly the D11, which runs from Carcassone towards Beziers, with the Canal du Midi, boating and cycling, running alongside and within the vineyards and hills of the Minervois – lots of beautiful villages, stopping places, along the route.

It was a Monday holiday as part of the French Pentecost long weekend, so the roads in my direction were quiet, and the temperature started to rise to reach 21.5deg in the sunny afternoon although all of France is experiencing unusually low temperatures for this time in June and not going to be much warmer over the next few days until Sunday.

I realised that my search for LPG could actually be fulfilled by the same garage at Carcassone where I was eventually successful the last time I was in this area at the beginning of April. With my memory augmented by mylpg.eu I was able to find the establishment again, and it was open and ‘quiet’; lets do this; french adaptor duly applied, connected the nozzle – pump motor started, pressed the green button, and the gauge showed gas being pumped???!!! Piece of …….. Completely straightforward and I now have a full gas tank once again. Cost 0.9eu per litre which is really cheap compared to buying and swapping bottles.

Notwithstanding my new-found arrogance about LPG-filling (did I really only write the article about the travails of the same yesterday?), I did note a certain ‘carefreeness’ re the drive – Monte’s been running like a dream, ok with satnav and roads, even the possibility of doing a Cock of the Aire and stopping unexpectedly because a particular aire in a village looked attractive, and hey why not …

I veered off into the village of Capestang because it looked attractive and had an aire sign-posted. Discovered that the village had created a municipal campsite, because it didn’t necessarily want motorhomes parked alongside the Canal, so decided to stay here, and possibly do a short bike ride tomorrow before moving on. My immediate neighbours here are a Swedish couple who’ve just retired, sold up in Sweden and are about to complete and get the key for their new home they’ve purchased in a village closer to Beziers. Wanting to live in a warm and sunny place while they are able to make such a move.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in France, Places