This is a well-known drive in Germany heading south from near Wurzburg to Fussen in Bavaria, the location of the fairy-tale Neuschwanstein and other castles. Reminded of it by friends, I decided to do this route as part of the planned journey to Lake Garda in Italy.
Koblenz
After a long drive from dropping the sisters at Amsterdam airport, I stayed here for 2 nights at a campsite a few kms down the Moselle river, enjoyed my cycle into the town and the cable car ride to the fortress above at the Rhine and Moselle confluence.

Provision of beaches along the river

The Rhine is closest to the cables, the Moselle to the right of the ‘Deutches Eck’ corner

Mix of housing, and lack of security – cameras, high borders, etc in place
Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber
I came off the motorway to officially start on the Romantic Road heading for this town. The route passed through many places with medieval centres, and rolling countryside, but my planned schedule didn’t provide for more stops. I stayed in one of the parkings the town has provided for motorhomes – some 80 places, for 15eu per night with heated and clean public toilets.
This small town of approx 12000 people is one of the most popular and highly-visited. Beautiful, intact medieval buildings, squares, and complete city walls.
Worth reading about in Wikipedia where there is a large history section, which also covers Nazi Germany and WW2. Gives pause for thought once again in these times where we seem not to have learnt from history. What happened then, not that long ago, is not unique to Germans or a certain part of the population in Rwanda, or the former Yugoslavia, or Cambodia. It could happen anywhere, some early actions of which I believe we are seeing in the US right now, and even more so with 21st century digital tools and AI. Mafiosi/money rules leadership who will exploit people’s fears, endlessly stoke victimhood, ensure that ‘others’ are blamed and dehumanised, kidnapping off the streets without due process, contravening the law repeatedly and significant proportions of willing electorates who hand over their critical thinking and become cult followers, or take democracy for granted and don’t acknowledge the writing on the wall and fight against until it’s too late.
Fussen
As the weather was not good the next day I continued the drive on the autoroute to this beautiful place close to the Alps, the location of the famous Schloss Neuschwanstein and HohenSchwangau and the end of the ‘strasse’. The weather had improved slightly so I was able to have an explore round the centre, finally for about the 4th time of asking at cake shops acquire my favourite Bienenstich, and feel comfortable in the van on one of the private motorhome park sites.
Many bike packers were evident, and I think that the Romantische Strasse would be good for a cycle tour. As for me, I decided to visit one of the castles the following morning, and then carry on for a visit to Innsbruck, but as per the forecast it was pouring down, with low clouds in the mountains around and very little visibility. Lake Garda, meanwhile and for the price of a 5-hour drive and tolls had summer weather forecast. No contest, I accelerated to the sunshine and blue skies.
Things I noticed in this relatively quick visit through Germany – roads great, good cycling infrastructure used by many. Whereas the Dutch go for comfort, I observed the German choice to be primarily for electric of the meaty mountain bike type. As I drove onwards further south it seemed that most of the holiday traffic was carrying bikes.
The cost of living was very similar in the Netherlands and Germany to the UK, although we were very shocked by the barometer of the shopping basket – the price of hummus even in Lidl which was double that of the UK and my extended family staple.