Musings

May/June ’23 Trip Roundup

Something about driving north through France towards a ferry booking in early July, and the facts that I’d done quite alot of moving on in 5 weeks, and had paid £10 extra for a changeable ‘flexi’ ticket, brought me to the conclusion that I was happy to finish the trip slightly earlier than planned, and the other places I had envisaged would keep.

So I set out to cover the ground from Bordeaux to Le Havre, with a stopover near Le Mans over two days, having successfully managed to change the booking. Although the region between Tours and this city was at the end of many hours of driving, still I was able to look at the passing landscapes and towns with somewhat fresh eyes, and realise that this region around the river Sarthe was also beautiful. So where isn’t in France?

I did have one moment of absolute horror in an otherwise fantastic uneventful road trip, when all of a sudden my van lost all power. I was able to coast onto the hard-shoulder – still available in France! – on a quiet motorway, and to huge relief re-start the motor immediately. The journey continued in the same uneventful way, and the next day all the way home to north England?? Whether my knee had somehow managed to turn the key in the the ignition to off, I don’t know. But that van has been stupendous and I continue to love it. It needs and deserves two new front tyres immediately upon return.

The campsite I had selected from the Park4Night app, Le Vieux Moulin, was like staying in a lovely garden, only a few kilometres from Le Mans, and in a future tour, I won’t hesitate to stay here again, and recommend.

The next day I opted to drive across country again on non-toll roads up to Honfleur, which is only a few kilometres from Le Havre. I stayed in Honfleur at the end of my 4 months travel back in 2019, and I’d forgotten how lovely a place it is. Likewise for the hinterland of this part of Normandy.

It was great weather, a flat sea and as we sailed past the city, Le Havre looked again to be an attractive place for a future visit. On the list now with the Marais Poitevin, Chatellailon sur Plage, and L’Ile Noirmoutier.

Off the ferry and straight up the A34 from Portsmouth and then onto the motorways became more and more like driving through France and Spain, a result only of rising to the challenge of travelling through the early hours. Thanks to a rest in the 6-hour sailing, and tuning into Heart 70s for the totality, I was actually able to enjoy the journey. When do I have 5 hours of uninterrupted singing-along bliss. What a decade of classics for this 70s girl.

In summary, I continue to be so thankful for my good health, for the material blessings of this vehicle and my bike and other kit, and for this time and money freedom to experience other cultures and landscapes, and meet so many interesting people along the way. And to have all this, knowing that I have a wonderful family, set of friends and home to return to each time.

Looking forward only a few weeks now, who knows how I (and my campervan) will incorporate the momentous change of the arrival of a new next generation family member.

Posted by admin in France, Musings, Places

Back to France, Long Journeys, Solo Travelling

Crossing the border from Spain into France became my 2nd visit this travelling (academic) year.

Looking at the map and appropriate route to get to around Toulouse for an overnight stop, I decided to use the toll motorway, and got to a 3-star campsite on a lake near the little town of Nailloux. France is absolutely the best country in my humble opinion for its wealth of campsites and places to stay, albeit many campsites are closed out of season. The site was in a beautiful, rural setting, peaceful, and good facilities all for a reasonable price. What I hadn’t realised, until I was pouring over the map to select my overnight stop, was that I had visited this area 2 or 3 times when I was a teenager, as it was where my French boyfriend of the time came from. It brought back alot of memories.

Bordeaux was my next intended destination for my first visit. I could have done a proper city visit to Toulouse, but preferred to drive on and go across country on non-toll roads. The roads are great and usually pretty empty but this approach takes twice as long for the advantage of seeing new towns and landscapes. The new and enjoyable for me was passing through small market towns like Auterive, which looked lovely, and then the rolling green and eventually vineyard-covered Gascony into Les Landes and the wine route.

Using two satnavs did not prevent me from stopping at least twice to check the destination, given their distance calculation of some 800 kilometres rather than around 300. The culprit was the suburb of Bordeaux in which the targeted campsite was situated – Bruges! – which was found in the satnav databases attached to the road I put in. The algorithms chose to use this and lose the city! It took me more pondering, re-input, checking etc than it should have done before the problem was diagnosed, and then confirmed. The distance is one of the pieces of information I use when travelling for a sense-check, and reassurance that I’m nearly there when I’m getting to the end of driving brain power. Learning is always applied based on the experience of a few years ago, when I and 3 others drove to a concert at a well-known Manchester venue, and arrived instead outside a pub of the same name in a dubious part of Oldham. There were many indicators in the last couple of miles that this area couldn’t be right 😂, but in the absence of knowledge about our destination, and having put our faith in technology, we continued until the bitter end – in this case the darkened, empty streets in an industrial park, and if I remember correctly, a closed-down pub.

In this trip, I’ve been reflecting more on doing significant journeys into the unknown as a solo traveller, 4 years now after my initial few months of extended travel when I started this blog. Also I do keep being prompted to do this by young and older (women usually) regularly asking if I’m travelling alone, and then observing that I’m ‘very brave’. I need to have appropriate responses in French and German ready-prepared next time. Spanish would be a step too far, and open the door to an expectation of fluency which my reasonable understanding but smattering only of spoken competency gets nowhere near.

To the young female british border control officer who said I was very good driving such a large vehicle, I unfortunately had abit of a tired un-moderated step onto my feminist soapbox as I replied somewhat tersely without a smile that anyone can do this whether male or female, that she was a young woman, I was older and we can all do it! I think I was triggered by a whole load of neural networks firing and coalescing around the fact that these words were uttered by a young woman in Western Europe in 2023. I don’t think the same would come out of a young man’s mouth. As I review this, I was, am no doubt being harsh. Still …………

Spain and certainly France are more in my comfort zone than Slovenia and Croatia back in Autumn last year, but navigating complex city interchanges anywhere regularly seems to happen at the end of many hours of driving, and in very hot temperatures despite air control. I do need to take more account of this on subsequent trips. Nevertheless, I managed on this occasion to arrive at the campsite safe and sound, just knackered yet again.

This exhaustion can very quickly turn into happy relief if I feel ok with the place, and it meets my expectations which have usually been checked via online reviews. I am not an adventurer in terms of just wandering off-piste and seeing where I end up – usually heading unexpectedly upto ski resorts on ever narrowing roads. This has happened twice – in the Pyrenees and then the Sierra Nevada. Tbh I would rather avoid, rather than temporarily master the arising fears, to get myself out of there. I do love the mountains, once I’m up in them, so that’s a bit of a challenge I also need to address.

In my case, the shortcut telling comes from the satnavs, and I don’t have any real-time sources reassuring me there’s nothing to worry about. Of course the reassurance wouldn’t work anyway.

Posted by admin in Musings

Denia/Javea Casita via Mojacar

Decided to do another long stretch from Nerja to the house of long-standing university friends in the above area.

The landscape through Almeria, and into the Murcia regions is very arid and the word ‘brutalist’ sums it up for me. Lots of agriculture under plastic poly-tunnels. I do like a tree, or many, and there aren’t any unless veering off into the towns and cities.

As Mojacar was only 10km off the motorway at one point, I went there for a lunch stop and to have a think about Mum. This was one of her happy places which her partner had introduced into her life, and I had also joined them on two occasions in March with the last one in 2019. I wanted to see whether any half-built apartment blocks had been completed, and whether it was still as beautiful and welcoming in June. It was, and some of the buildings had been completed.

The motorway journey was great and only really got busy around Alicante. The landscape suddenly changed at Ca;lpe and became green with trees, and it felt as though I had driven all the way to the Cote d’Azur.

When I finally found my friends’ house in the La Sella area, I spent a geat 4 days with them, staying in their annex, enjoying the beautiful location and having them as tour guides around Denia, Javea and into the mountains for a paella. Hopefully I’ll have other times in the future to visit. They haven’t aged a day 🙂

Ultimately heading for the Costa Brava, I decided to stay at a small site at the medieval town of Bocairent, passing Ontinyent inland from Valencia. Very beautiful wide valleys here with vineyards, and surrounded by hills/low mountains. The Beach Boys accompanied some of the rising temperature to more than 30 degrees. Most unfortunately the little campsite of 6 pitches was fully booked, and so I drove on, stopping at a site at another medieval town, Xativa.

On final arrival I was shattered from some of the drive taking me through very narrow residential streets in towns along the way, and having to do more than one u-turn due to the lack of signs for the campsites. And how could I almost forget another of my most hated episodes: trying to navigate to a gas station which had LPG, and then trying to get some out of the pump and into the vehicle, in this case from what seemed to be a completely un-‘personned’ station.

After about 10 mins in the heat of the midday of repeatedly reading the destructions on the pump (another sign of madness) and trying to get the pump to clamp onto one of my 4 or so adaptors, there suddenly appeared a hero-type with his polo-shirt indicating he was a gas station attendant. Between his Spanish and my English, and my obvious welcome at his appearance, he conveyed that I needed to activate my card payment on another machine away from the LPG pump first (not in the instwuctions), He then proceeded to achieve the process with ease, and deal unflinchingly with the explosion on de-clamping the pump. My jubilance lasted all the way until the narrow residential street driving.

After the arrival cup of tea and period of collapse, I forced myself off to walk round the town for a couple of hours, and it was well worth the visit, even though I will not be going upto the castle at the top.

Going to go for another long journey tomorrow.

Posted by admin in Musings, Places, Spain, The Good

Avila & Arrival at Madrid

It was an easy drive from La Granja to the historic town of Avila, with its main fame being its intact medieval walls. I stayed at a paying campervan stop just outside them, for a relaxing 2 nights which enabled me to pay to walk round them, and then the next day do a half a day exploring the very nearby reservoir and rest of the town by bike.

Real life goes on inside these walls, with a mixture of old and newer housing and the whole is very understated re tourism.

Today, after another 2 hour drive I arrived at a campsite 11km from the centre of Madrid, very near one of the motorways round and through. As ever a complete change from the rural but school childrens’ noise, and then the tarmac car park small town setting of the last 4 days and nights.

I put my trust totally in two satnavs to get here, and mused to myself as we were steadily guided across complex motorway intersections, helped no doubt by the fact it was Sunday, that I could just sail on by and out of Madrid, for all I knew of where I was going. In previous times, I would have written down a list of all the junctions and then main road numbers, and in studying the map, I would have had a good idea of where exactly the campsite was relative to suburbs, other towns etc, so then seeing these on signs would have been reassuring. Nevertheless, Via Michelin and my lorry one both got me to my destination, and the non-toll route did involve a very high climb into the drizzling clouds with thankfully low visibility, and a 50km/hr speed limit, to get across the mountains. Google maps continues to shut down when I press ‘Start’ for a car journey, although it doesn’t for cycling??, and only disabling/enabling, then restarting my phone, seems to do the trick for a session.

So I’m finally here to do a second much wanted city visit, after being fortunate to spend a long weekend in Copenhagen last month. My trusty steed and google satnav took me this afternoon to the centre briefly, then back out again, just so that I could get an initial ‘feel’ of the city. Much of the route in was on good, marked, cycling track provision, athough on the way back, heading up a 6-lane long avenue, I was told by a bus driver in the bus/taxi-only lane to my right within about 2 feet of me, (there were plastic road divider things between his lane and mine) that I should get into the middle of the lane I was in, rather than be on its right. At least this is what I very quickly understood from his “Medio, medio…” gesticulation from a glance out of the corner of my right eye. Indeed the markings on the road did indicate that this whole lane was for bikes (and cars!). This caused me to expect hostility from the car drivers behind, to be mitigated by me putting on the motor at its top setting, so that I could zoom off and reach tremendous speeds of 15mph in only a few seconds from the many, many red traffic lights. And bear in mind, there’s no ‘preparation’ amber, and this was uphill for several kilometers. Ah well, it’s all in the good cause of exercise and staving off dementia 🤣.

I’m going to treat myself tomorrow, travel in by metro and spend the day exploring on foot. It’s a shame the weather isn’t quite what I was expecting – showers, some sunshine, then showers. I haven’t been out of jeans and jumpers since I left the UK, But I am enjoying being on the road again without the pressure of a turn-around time within a couple of weeks, loving Blue’s home from home comforts, and thankful to continue to have such opportunities to explore the setups of different countries and hear bits of other people’s stories.

Posted by admin in Musings, Places, Spain

Last post for September 2022 trip

A long but pleasant drive up to Calais, a flattish sea, and then the route back to Oxfordshire to have a stopover with family, interspersed with what I can only describe as the horrendous ‘continual parking’ of the M25. Admittedly a Friday afternoon must be the least advisable time to be using the road. It caused me to consume a whole bag of chocolate eclairs, and at one particular stage had to control a very strong claustophobic urge to have a major meltdown and refuse to put up with it any longer. I can laugh now that I’m out of it.

But the traffic eventually flowed past Heathrow, the M4 exit and onto the M40, and I went mad and pushed the speed to 70mph! After the many hours in the driving seat, I decided it was safer to come back down to my cruise controlling 58.

As we came through that significant cut in the hills, looking out on the Berkshire plains? the sun was shining, the traffic on the road had significantly thinned, fantastic sing-along tracks were provided by R2, and the freedom of the road resumed. Now just the drive back up to North Yorkshire.

Blue has done me proud – what a fantastic home from home. Map of my journey to hopefully be added.

Posted by admin in Musings, Van

Smile Disappeared as has Baden-Baden for this year

So near and yet so far – approx 30 miles from BB, they completely shut the motorway near Pforzheim, and I was stuck there for 3 hours. Reminded with 2 visits that the onboard loo is why I’v got a campervan. Then the sky went completely dark and grey and the first real rain of the last 3 weeks came down.  Rather miserable.

I managed to get off at the junction near the closure, and go somewhere completely in the opposite direction to the diversion.  This somewhere is a stellplatz in a small town called Muhlacker and I think I was lucky to get one of the 5 designated bays as 2 other vans have had to go elsewhere. I arrived at about 4pm, vehicled-out having been on the road since 7:30.

What’s interesting about these park-ups is the diversity of tribe membership of the occupants who change daily.  Today I have a works van/camper on one side, and on the other 2 young parents in an old duct-taped VW type thing, plus a mini works van,  with their two pre-school children.  Beyond their pitch, there are the older (than I ??!! 😄) German couple in their well-heeled motorhome with electric bikes on the back.  Yesterday, there was a van from Denmark, a German woman who with her van looked like a van-lifer, me, a single elderly man in his significant ‘A’-class van (a caravan with an engine) who helped me out by paying the parking fee with his card in exchange for my cash.  These places are located in all sorts of situations, and in many cases in ‘nice’ residential areas. I don’t believe they would be tolerated by home-owners in the UK, and also interesting is that I haven’t come across ‘traveller’ peoples staying there.

The weather forecast for tomorrow is mostly rain, BB is going abit south, and devoid of campsites other than the base of my last failed attempt to reach the town in the company of my sister. That’s a pre-blog trip full of various happenings, which could be the subject of another post sometime.   I don’t fancy doing the 24-mile cycle ride in the rain, and I do fancy the more space of a campsite pitch this time, so will head north and west going via Luxembourg, France’s Charleville-Mezieres (of eventful trip fame), and Belgium, ready for reaching Dunkerque Friday.

Posted by admin in Events, Musings, The Bad