The journey down to Lienz around the Tre Cime’s mountains via Dobbiaco was straightforward, and stunning scenery all around. I didn’t stop but the latter town at just over 1200m with its lake looked definitely worth a visit.
And now I entered Austria for a proper stay for the first time, rather than passing through. The road continued along the beautiful wide valley gradually descending to my destination Camping Falken on the edge of the small town of Lienz (population approx 12000) at about 600m. This campsite had been recommended in a motorhome magazine from several years ago, and I had kept the page in my Austria archive of ripped out articles for places to go. I do get a kick out of actually using this stuff I go to the trouble of keeping, making accessible and choosing to cart with me.
My strong recommendations for the town, the campsite, and the setting confirm what I had read, and I will hopefully also revisit this place for a longer than 2-night stay. Beautiful, bustling historic town centre at a confluence of 2 rivers with fantastic infrastructure including cycling provision to visit further along the river valleys and up into the mountains, and a beautiful indoor/outdoor swimming centre.
The highlight for me here was the Tristacher lake swimming area. It’s my idea of a perfect amenity, admittedly improved by perfect weather! Just a few kms up from the campsite to 820m, it was so worth the effort to get there despite impaired gearing which I’ve vainly tried to fix on my e-bike, using the top 2 settings of the motor and zigzagging across the road to reduce the steepness. It was 6.50eu for the day, but that helps presumably go to maintain the fantastic toilets, changing areas, cafe, installations to get into the water etc. Everywhere including the water was so clean, the environment was respected by the visitors of all ages, and what a relaxing holiday way to pass 5-6 hours or so reading, cooling off repeatedly in the water, having a coffee, people watching. I was so happy to be there I decided to blow the budget 😂 and order my first curry wurst and chips for lunch.
So onto Mauterndorf, with the place and campsite recommended by friend Carole and still constant canine companion Ted. At the motorway exit for the town I chose to ignore the google navigation, which wanted to take me to the next junction, in favour of the bigger screen lorry satnav. A mistake, as I started ascending on a definitely minor road with a surface that caused me to wonder whether I had a flat tyre, (not what I expect from you Austria!) with very few possibilities to do any number of points turn. Deciding to plough on, it took me upto the Katschberg ski station and then down on the inevitable braking descent. I now really pump the brakes rather than keep them on, using the gears far more than I would otherwise do. On arriving at the campsite this time there was somewhat of that burning smell from one of the rear tyres, but not enough to cause concern.
The 4-star smallish campsite is by a beautiful little river, at the bottom of the Grosseck-Spiereck cable car to this small ski area starting at 1100m, about 1km by lovely walking/cycling route along the river to the historic very small town. A gorgeous setting for hiking, cycling, and relaxing at the site and in the cafes in the town, with fantastic site facilities and small but very welcome swimming pool. It’s still mid to late 20s during the day, but thankfully significantly cooler for sleeping.
An additional benefit here is the Lungau region guest card which gives free access for the first use to local cable cars, swimming pools, museums, the castle etc in the region.
Yesterday I cycled to the small town of Mariapfarr, claiming to be the sunniest place in Austria, to spend a few hours for free at its outdoor swimming pool. The further pool is the first I’ve ever seen whose sides and bottom appear to be either stainless steel or zinc/aluminium. The cleanest pool in which I’ve ever had the pleasure to swim.
Today I went up the mountain in the cable car, which would otherwise have cost 25eu. I think it’s the first time I’ve spent some hours on the actual slopes in an alpine ski resort in the summer. The photos don’t do it justice.
How fortunate am I to be able to see so many such beautiful places and landscapes. I really do believe campervanning has made all this accessible to me.
Looks absolutely fantastic Jackie. Your research has paid dividends!