Month: May 2019

Leaving Portugal, EasyTolls and into Spain – Lago de Sanabria

Despite the weather forecast looking as though my next main destination could be in rainfall and drizzle for my intended time there, I decided to continue nevertheless with my plan to leave Portugal and head for the Picos de Europa and then San Sebastian, breaking the journey at the recommended Lago de Sanabria.

The journey took in going north of the almost border town of Chaves, to drive back into Portugal as if for the first time in an effort to try and retrospectively register with the Portuguese EasyTolls system, and thereby avoid a fine for previously using the motorways in question approaching Porto. I had endeavoured in vain to register correctly when entering Portugal a month earlier from southern Spain, but with all 3 cards being rejected, and having not driven on toll roads between then and the Porto approach, had genuinely forgotten all about it. The same 3 cards were rejected again but my current account debit card passed muster. No doubt I will probably be ok for this one junction’s worth of tolls, and will still be fined – which I think is 10 times the toll value – for the previous misdemeanor. One lives and learns.

I was very glad to finally arrive at the Lago de Sanabria after a long drive and the increasing feel of ‘yes it’s beautiful countryside, but where am I in the middle of this nowhere’. Stress and tiredness levels were not helped by the fact that my targeted campsite was now no longer in operation determined by a phone call after I’d driven past it twice, and the website given a ‘website owner’s bandwidth exceeded’ page. Thankfully, there was another campsite in the vicinity and I duly selected a pitch with the other few motorhomers, in the otherwise pretty empty wooded place. Once I’d got over my exhaustion – heat and long drive – and had my first shower for 5 days – I became a human being again, and things got back in perspective. I enjoyed a good conversation with Sharon and John from Cardiff, so have recorded this in a separate post.

Unfortunately the photos I took of the lake were too dark – something wrong with the camera settings, but in certain directions, with the surrounding hills it had a feel of the Lake District about it.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Spain

John & Donna

Enjoyed their company in the wine-tasting and after, hearing about their 2-year travelling break started in January, to eventually go east all the way to China via the ‘Silk Road’.

Their home is Gertie, a converted Landrover Defender which they bought from the army with only approx 40k miles no longer needing it presumably as an ambulance; running on diesel, and solar panel to lithium battery; also has a pop-top

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Meetings - the non-work sort
Throw them wide – Douro Vineyard Stay

Throw them wide – Douro Vineyard Stay

Due to the temperature forecast moving into the 30s, I had wavered in my plan to do the unusual (for me) and go and stay at the Park4Night recommended vineyard only a few miles up in the hills from Regua, versus driving north into Spain to my target destination of Lago de Sanabria.

But threw caution to the wind yesterday and drove up to 600 metres above sea level, up the windy, twisty, but at least hill-hugging right side of the road. Driving alongside the river and up into the hills, before it got too high of course, in the morning sun was joyous. The vineyard’s field where we can stay for free – beautiful and peaceful. The wine-tasting session with Jose, one of the owners of the vineyard, Quinta de Padrela, was so interesting, tasting the wine, olive oil, and a partner company’s cheese made from a mix of cow, goat and sheep milk, learning about the vineyard, area and production process, and all in the company of other ‘guests’ from Germany, Canada, and a couple John and Donna, (John born in Harrogate), spending 2 years intending to travel east ultimately along the Silk road all the way to China, in their converted army Landrover – see dedicated post.

Conversation was enjoyable, strayed towards politics and some national characteristics – not british ones thankfully. We managed to deftly steer away from Brexit, and even Trump as a common theme with our Canadian group members, towards what we all agreed was the more interesting topic and caused alot of laughter – the wine effect also no doubt: the pronunciation challenge offered to Jose by the words ‘sheep cheese’ which he initially described as ‘cheese from sheeps’ in an effort to not convey that the cheese was … – you try saying it! Our German companions’ English, and Jose’s, was of course good enough for the tour to be given, all understood and contributed to, in English.

Some interesting facts for me to remember and these items on the tray are part of this week’s staving off dementia exercise: this area experiences temperatures from 0 in winter with snow just above here to up to 40 degrees in Summer; average-sized vineyard, with one side being 30 years old roughly, and the ‘old’ one 70 years old; don’t irrigate the vineyard as no need to, and only allowed as part of a licence to plant out a new vineyard; produce blended wines, mostly red, some white and rose; sell all over the world via distributors; harvest literally by hand by people from the area, primarily over the age of 50, as the ‘young’ as Jose calls people upto this age!! , and he’s one of them, are too lazy :); mature the red wine in French oak barrels, rather than those eg from US, as impart different tastes: a barrel costs about 1000eu and is used for 3 seasons; corks used in bottles to contribute to maturing process; 2 years ago lost over 50% of production due to bad weather in Spring, and last year I think it was 30%; very regulated to keep the quality up; portuguese television tends not to dub the English, in favour of sub-titles, hence their proficiency.

So glad I came here – have lovely shady spot – not too hot in the end thanks to the breeze and no doubt altitude, and the night was cool. Woke up this morning to the vista from my apartment (bijou) window, did a cycle ride through surrounding vineyards – yes uphill couldn’t be avoided – took in a coffee at the lovely town of Tabuaco, and now back for the afternoon and evening, sitting in the sun/shade, reading, writing and arithmetic loading costs into spreadsheet :), planning the next part of the route across Spain and into and across France, eating the cherries and oranges bought from a road side seller, and will slice off some of that cheese from sheeps …..

and tho’ on my own, still the song reflects it all perfectly.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Portugal, The Good

The ones that got away this time

To record the places I wanted but didn’t manage to visit – for the future:

  • Spain Picos – Caras Gorge Walk, and Fuente De Cable Car
  • Barcelona – Parc Guell
  • Las Medulas – recommended by Donna
  • Toledo, Avila, Segovia, Salamanca, Madrid, Santiago de Campostela and Galicia
  • Portugal – Barra, and more of north and interior including Parque Nacional Peneda-Geres, Coimbra and Busaco
  • France Normandy – Giverny – Monet’s garden
  • Loire region – Chateaux and towns
Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places

Forwards or Backwards facing – Douro Valley train journey

As I contemplated today’s activity, I realised that I was actually sitting outside the van watching the sun go down around 9pm, comfortably still in tee-shirt and shorts for the first time I think since last September, and how pleasant that was. It tops a day which demands the most lyrical of waxing, extreme gushing and definitely makes it into the Good category. I took the 1hr 40min Douro Valley train journey from Regua to Pocinho for the sum of 13eu return, and this journey can be taken from Porto, and onboard a historic train from June.

The river, surrounding vineyards, relative emptiness, all of course enhanced for me by clear blue sky and hot sun softened by breezy shade, and the fact that this is still well before high season – no crowds, no booking, no hustling. The photos will do the waxing, but just before them – the train was very comfortable, not the sardine packing I’ve come to expect from the UK’s rail service, and amazingly …..

Direction of travel? no problem.

All of the vineyards had their ‘brand’ names including Sandeman, Cockburn, Taylors. It was very like the Moselle valley, or the steep hills/mountains around the Italian lakes. Would be great to have a cycle route also – the only thing missing.

Posted by admin in Portugal, The Good

Douro Valley N222 to Aire at Peso da Regua

Had a four-hour leisurely drive on the road N222, which I had read was one of Portugal’s great drives, for many miles from Porto up the Douro river valley. The road was perfectly fine, pretty empty, and the scenery was indeed stunning, so I recommend it. 28 degrees now, so rather hot. Had to swap summer pj’s for winter ones last night given that the menopausal guest had vacated, but it’s definitely back to the summer ones tonight.

The aire is fantastic – even toilets here, as part of this river leisure area. Considering train trip, cycle ride on converted track Linho do Sabor further up the valley, and move to a vineyard, before heading back to Spain.

Posted by Jackie Barnes in Places, Portugal